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Cycling peeps - thoughts on potential roadbikes...

Dial_tone said:
My suggestion is that you look at the components more - crankset, brakes, derailleur, pedals, etc. Those bikes you've shown have a hodgepodge of stuff, no doubt chosen more for economy than performance. I think you should pony up for a bike that has all Shimano 105 AS A MINIMUM and preferably Shimano Ultegra. My bike is all Dura-Ace with the exception of the hubs, which I didn't deem worth the extra $200 until i'm riding the Tour de France. You won't notice the difference much in the first year, but the 105 will start to degrade sooner than Ultegra and Dura-Ace in later years. Ultegra has improved to the point where the main difference between it and Dura-Ace is weight and we're talking 4-6 ounces here.
looking online thru what this store has, combined with my budget, the bike below seems like a decent fit (since I keep hearing "Ultegra" as a must have). is there much of a difference between aluminum and CF?

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?year=2005&model=11157
 
Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.
 
KillahBee said:
looking online thru what this store has, combined with my budget, the bike below seems like a decent fit (since I keep hearing "Ultegra" as a must have). is there much of a difference between aluminum and CF?

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?year=2005&model=11157

The difference is getting smaller each year. In the past aluminum frames were light but too flimsy for anyone over 180 lbs; that's why old Cannondales had those huge diameter tubes to make them stiff. The problem was they were so stiff it was like riding a jack hammer. Think of a Coke can - it can support your weight if you stand on it but tap the sides and it folds like a cheap card table. It's better now but I still hold a grudge against aluminum. My next bike will be carbon fiber or titanium.
 
Synpax said:
Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.

I have had some decent interaction with the shop before (bought a mountain bike there a while ago) and know they have a pretty good rep. the sales guy I spoke with was pretty open. but I never dismiss the notion that they are sales people, so you gotta take it with a grain of salt.

I'm gonna take the Giant for a spin and feel the difference between that and the Carbon Specialized.

thanks guys
 
Synpax said:
Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.

Carbon can be stiff or cushy - that's the beauty of it. Sometimes you'll see alum. bikes with a carbon fork to soften the ride. A carbon frame can also be under 2.2 lbs whereas you'll rarely (if ever) see a steel/aluminum frame anywhere near that. I think my steel frame is near 3 lbs even w/o the fork, which is another 1.25 lbs at least.
Most bike salesmen are pretty knowledgeable, but they're going to push whichever has the margin profit margin.
 
I'm an active cyclist for many years - here in the northeast our season is short, but i still manage to log 3000+ miles every summer on my road bikes.

If you're looking into making a commitment to this sport, I recommend you shop around not only for the best bike for the buck, but for a shop you can build and maintain a relationship with. A good shop not only provides quality product and repair service / advice.....it can provide a social outlet and riding groups and other activities.

BTW - when you're getting fitted for a bike, make sure they don't stop at height and leg lengths - they need to build up your armlength ratios and shoulder width, too....if your "fitting" doesn't take at least 15 minutes, you're not in a shop run by true biking enthusiasts. Find another one. Many shops will charge for this service, but will then apply that cost toward the purchase of a bike.

Find a shop where you truly feel a dedication to the sport, and you'll find a community that shares your passion....and a relationship you'll come to value.
 
I'm actually going this weekend to check em out more. it's been really cold here the last few weeks but we are supposed to have a little warm front coming in this weekend
 
Im also thinking about getting a road bike.
I think Im gonna try to raise money and do one of these rides:
http://ride.jdrf.org/2006rides.html
Maybe death valley or asheville. If you raise the $$, everything else is covered.

Did you get a bike KB?

Is anything less than 1000$ even worth getting for a long distance (100 mi)?
 
dawookie said:
Im also thinking about getting a road bike.
I think Im gonna try to raise money and do one of these rides:
http://ride.jdrf.org/2006rides.html
Maybe death valley or asheville. If you raise the $$, everything else is covered.

Did you get a bike KB?

Is anything less than 1000$ even worth getting for a long distance (100 mi)?


Nice. I did the MS ride last September, but only 30miles with a mountain bike. Instead of doing a solo century this fall I think I may do the MS one so I can raise some loot for them too.

No bike yet. been sick for 2 weeks and dropped $300 on dinner Fri night, so decided to wait a week or two.
 
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