Cycling peeps - thoughts on potential roadbikes...

[KillahBee]

I am looking to buy a roadbike once 06 hits (I have $500 from work to add to the pot once 1/1/06 comes arond). Went to the local shop today and talked to some people there for a while. Here's what I think I am looking at for my budget and my plans/needs (I am shooting do ride a century by the end of fall, barring any major injuries. hopefully get in at least 100 miles a week in the spring and increase it in the summer):

Specialized Allez (around $750) http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=12390

Specialized Allez SPT (around $900) http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13017

Specialized Roubaix (around $1300) http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13027

I tested out the Roubaix and I liked it. For longer rides and the use I plan on putting it thru, the Roubaix seems the best option. Just wanted to see if any of you have thoughts.

 

[silverfish]

I have a Trek 2200 and use it for duathlons and just plain riding. Never had a problem. I think the 2100 is in your upper price range at about $1400. The components may be a little better depending on what you like.

I've never been on a Specialized bike so I can't comment on them.

 

[MikeMartial]

I can't comment on road bikes, since I'm a mountain bike guy myself. But, this I know:

1) Specialized makes quality mtn bike frames, can't go wrong.

2) Buy the BEST frame you can afford---components can always be swapped off and upgraded.

 

[Synpax]

Hmm. Lots I could say.

I strongly suggest you do at least this much: go to another bike store and see what they have.

The most important thing is bike fit.

 

[KillahBee]

Hmm. Lots I could say.

I strongly suggest you do at least this much: go to another bike store and see what they have.

The most important thing is bike fit.

That wasn't exactly helpful. Do you have an issue with Specialized? Do you think I am gong about things the wrong way? Give me your thoughts...as long as you can give them in a constructive manner I'll listen

 

[Synpax]

That wasn't exactly helpful. Do you have an issue with Specialized? Do you think I am gong about things the wrong way? Give me your thoughts...as long as you can give them in a constructive manner I'll listen

Sorry, I assumed you were smart enough for me not to have to explain the obvious. What's more to say than avoiding the common consumer mistake of 'not shopping around.'

What I meant was that it is wise to seek the opinion of more than one bike shop. Your probability of getting a bad fit or a bad deal are much higher when you talk to only one. There are a lot of shops that are run by idiots - most of the ones I've experienced. They either try to stiff you on components or give you a bike that may not fit you OR not set it up to fit you right. If you plan to ride long distances on it comfort is important.

There are about 50 bike makers out there. Right now I am filtering through them to by a high end tri bike for around $5-6k. There are a lot of variables: frame fit, setup fit, warrenty, frame, wheels, group set, who you buy from.

You probably don't have a need to go through all of that, but for $1500 you probably ought to at least go to more than one store and try more than one make. I'd also ask them what group set they are giving you and I would suggest avoiding anything like the Shimano Sora set or lower as my personal experience is it just isn't durable.

A final thought is that you can probably get a much higher end road bike with a better group set for the same money by checking out Craigslist. There are a LOT of people who need cash this time of year and bought some fancy bike they never used. Pennies on the dollar.

Good luck.

 

[KillahBee]

Sorry, I assumed you were smart enough for me not to have to explain the obvious. What's more to say than avoiding the common consumer mistake of 'not shopping around.'

What I meant was that it is wise to seek the opinion of more than one bike shop. Your probability of getting a bad fit or a bad deal are much higher when you talk to only one. There are a lot of shops that are run by idiots - most of the ones I've experienced. They either try to stiff you on components or give you a bike that may not fit you OR not set it up to fit you right. If you plan to ride long distances on it comfort is important.

There are about 50 bike makers out there. Right now I am filtering through them to by a high end tri bike for around $5-6k. There are a lot of variables: frame fit, setup fit, warrenty, frame, wheels, group set, who you buy from.

You probably don't have a need to go through all of that, but for $1500 you probably ought to at least go to more than one store and try more than one make. I'd also ask them what group set they are giving you and I would suggest avoiding anything like the Shimano Sora set or lower as my personal experience is it just isn't durable.

A final thought is that you can probably get a much higher end road bike with a better group set for the same money by checking out Craigslist. There are a LOT of people who need cash this time of year and bought some fancy bike they never used. Pennies on the dollar.

Good luck.

condescending comments aside, I appreciate the advice. I do understand the need to shop around, but as a relative noobie to roadbikes I am not that well-schooled on what actual "fit" is correct for me. I have done research and reading, but that can only tell so much. A very innocent question is all I asked. I do not intend to take someone's thoughts here for "law".

 

[KillahBee]

And yes, there's this - I have almost $500 worth of gift certificates to this local bike shop. So I would like to purchase my bike there. But not at the cost of comfort/correct fit

 

[Synpax]

And yes, there's this - I have almost $500 worth of gift certificates to this local bike shop. So I would like to purchase my bike there. But not at the cost of comfort/correct fit

Well, the most important info on this entire thread was in the first post I made: fit is most important. This usually means making the seat much higher than most people are comfortable with at first.

Do you know what kind of pedals/cleat system you are going to use? Looking at your link it doesn't seem to come with any. You are definitly going to want clipless.

There are a lot of competing pedal systems but I would recomend the SPD system from Shimano. You can probably get a cheap pair of pedals off the net. If you are new to clipless, you are probably going to fall at first. It does take some testicular fortitude to get use to them (just like for aerobars).

The bike you are looking at seems decent though it's a 105 group set. Can you ask them how much more it would cost to upgrade to Ultegra?

And do they have any other bikes? Spec is pretty good but from what I have looked at is overpriced for what they offer. If I were going to buy a road bike I would give a close look at Giant's TCR line for better value. The TCR 1 costs less but have a MUCH MUCH MUCH x 10 better group set (Ultegra), pedals you can probably use, and a carbon seat post. MUCH better bike for the money:

http://kozy.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3826

Finally - I'd ask those guys to price match. A pro shop here in DC sold me $300 shoes for $200 and $150 pedals for $100 when I showed them a printout off the internet for the same price. You will probably repeat business for them to buy clothing, gels, helmet (you gotta wear one), so it's in their interest to deal.

 

[Dial_tone]

My suggestion is that you look at the components more - crankset, brakes, derailleur, pedals, etc. Those bikes you've shown have a hodgepodge of stuff, no doubt chosen more for economy than performance. I think you should pony up for a bike that has all Shimano 105 AS A MINIMUM and preferably Shimano Ultegra. My bike is all Dura-Ace with the exception of the hubs, which I didn't deem worth the extra $200 until i'm riding the Tour de France. You won't notice the difference much in the first year, but the 105 will start to degrade sooner than Ultegra and Dura-Ace in later years. Ultegra has improved to the point where the main difference between it and Dura-Ace is weight and we're talking 4-6 ounces here.

 

[KillahBee]

My suggestion is that you look at the components more - crankset, brakes, derailleur, pedals, etc. Those bikes you've shown have a hodgepodge of stuff, no doubt chosen more for economy than performance. I think you should pony up for a bike that has all Shimano 105 AS A MINIMUM and preferably Shimano Ultegra. My bike is all Dura-Ace with the exception of the hubs, which I didn't deem worth the extra $200 until i'm riding the Tour de France. You won't notice the difference much in the first year, but the 105 will start to degrade sooner than Ultegra and Dura-Ace in later years. Ultegra has improved to the point where the main difference between it and Dura-Ace is weight and we're talking 4-6 ounces here.

looking online thru what this store has, combined with my budget, the bike below seems like a decent fit (since I keep hearing "Ultegra" as a must have). is there much of a difference between aluminum and CF?

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?year=2005&model=11157

 

[Synpax]

Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.

 

[Dial_tone]

looking online thru what this store has, combined with my budget, the bike below seems like a decent fit (since I keep hearing "Ultegra" as a must have). is there much of a difference between aluminum and CF?

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?year=2005&model=11157

The difference is getting smaller each year. In the past aluminum frames were light but too flimsy for anyone over 180 lbs; that's why old Cannondales had those huge diameter tubes to make them stiff. The problem was they were so stiff it was like riding a jack hammer. Think of a Coke can - it can support your weight if you stand on it but tap the sides and it folds like a cheap card table. It's better now but I still hold a grudge against aluminum. My next bike will be carbon fiber or titanium.

 

[KillahBee]

Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.

I have had some decent interaction with the shop before (bought a mountain bike there a while ago) and know they have a pretty good rep. the sales guy I spoke with was pretty open. but I never dismiss the notion that they are sales people, so you gotta take it with a grain of salt.

I'm gonna take the Giant for a spin and feel the difference between that and the Carbon Specialized.

thanks guys

 

[Dial_tone]

Carbon is a smoother and often lighter ride. Try them both and see which you like.

The TCR1 is a good bike with good components.

Just the fact that the bike shop was pushing the specialized over the giant on you tells me they are either stupid or dishonest. Their margin on the spec was probably much greater.

Carbon can be stiff or cushy - that's the beauty of it. Sometimes you'll see alum. bikes with a carbon fork to soften the ride. A carbon frame can also be under 2.2 lbs whereas you'll rarely (if ever) see a steel/aluminum frame anywhere near that. I think my steel frame is near 3 lbs even w/o the fork, which is another 1.25 lbs at least.
Most bike salesmen are pretty knowledgeable, but they're going to push whichever has the margin profit margin.

 

[treadwell]

I'm an active cyclist for many years - here in the northeast our season is short, but i still manage to log 3000+ miles every summer on my road bikes.

If you're looking into making a commitment to this sport, I recommend you shop around not only for the best bike for the buck, but for a shop you can build and maintain a relationship with. A good shop not only provides quality product and repair service / advice.....it can provide a social outlet and riding groups and other activities.

BTW - when you're getting fitted for a bike, make sure they don't stop at height and leg lengths - they need to build up your armlength ratios and shoulder width, too....if your "fitting" doesn't take at least 15 minutes, you're not in a shop run by true biking enthusiasts. Find another one. Many shops will charge for this service, but will then apply that cost toward the purchase of a bike.

Find a shop where you truly feel a dedication to the sport, and you'll find a community that shares your passion....and a relationship you'll come to value.

 

[dawookie]

so kb, did you get a bike? What was your choice?

 

[KillahBee]

I'm actually going this weekend to check em out more. it's been really cold here the last few weeks but we are supposed to have a little warm front coming in this weekend

 

[dawookie]

Im also thinking about getting a road bike.
I think Im gonna try to raise money and do one of these rides:
http://ride.jdrf.org/2006rides.html
Maybe death valley or asheville. If you raise the $$, everything else is covered.

Did you get a bike KB?

Is anything less than 1000$ even worth getting for a long distance (100 mi)?

 

[KillahBee]

Im also thinking about getting a road bike.
I think Im gonna try to raise money and do one of these rides:
http://ride.jdrf.org/2006rides.html
Maybe death valley or asheville. If you raise the $$, everything else is covered.

Did you get a bike KB?

Is anything less than 1000$ even worth getting for a long distance (100 mi)?

Nice. I did the MS ride last September, but only 30miles with a mountain bike. Instead of doing a solo century this fall I think I may do the MS one so I can raise some loot for them too.

No bike yet. been sick for 2 weeks and dropped $300 on dinner Fri night, so decided to wait a week or two.

 

[Synpax]

Im also thinking about getting a road bike.
I think Im gonna try to raise money and do one of these rides:
http://ride.jdrf.org/2006rides.html
Maybe death valley or asheville. If you raise the $$, everything else is covered.

Did you get a bike KB?

Is anything less than 1000$ even worth getting for a long distance (100 mi)?

I did an ironman (112 miles) on a $475 bike (four years older than this model):
http://kozy.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=4100

I put $200 pedals on it and used a $300 pair of shoes. So the shoes and pedals cost more than the bike. I also put aerobars on it for $150.

Other than not being able to feel my johnson for about a week (though it was fully functional on it's own), I lived.

Of course, I am now going to spend $6000 on a bike in the next month or so that will be much faster/lighter/etc.

But to answer your question, the money spent on the bike is secondary to the development and determination of the engine.

 

[dawookie]

That's good to hear Synpax, it makes things a little more realistic as far as what Ill need to get started.

 

[Synpax]

Aye - get the best bike you can or care to have but you can get pretty far with a piece of garbage and enough genetics/training.

 

[Dial_tone]

I think if you plan to ride mostly flat terrain you're better off spending a bit less on the bike and putting it toward an upgraded wheelset. Given a choice between a 17 lb carbon fiber bike with normal rims versus a 19 lb metal bike with Zipp 440 wheels I'll take the Zipps anyday.

 

[Dial_tone]

This is my 10 year old jalopy. It's been a good bike. I used to have a track bike just like it.

BREW custom-made frame w/Reynolds 731OS tubing
8-speed Shimano Dura-Ace (Ultegra hubs)
Mavic Ksyrium Elite clincher wheels
Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals
Selle Italia Turbomatic 3 saddle

in the market for a new saddle with a center cutout and saving for a Felt F2C carbon or Merlin Extralight titanium frame.

 

[Synpax]

This is my 10 year old jalopy. It's been a good bike. I used to have a track bike just like it.

BREW custom-made frame w/Reynolds 731OS tubing
8-speed Shimano Dura-Ace (Ultegra hubs)
Mavic Ksyrium Elite clincher wheels
Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals
Selle Italia Turbomatic 3 saddle

in the market for a new saddle with a center cutout and saving for a Felt F2C carbon or Merlin Extralight titanium frame.

Ah - i should post my piece of trash bike, too. I have about the same pedals as you do.

 

[dawookie]

I picked up a bike over the weekend. I went with the Felt F90, their entry level road bike for 620$. I want to use and abuse this bike for a year and if Im still involved in the sport I can buy something better next year. It has the sora gruppo, which Synpax advised against. Carbon fork and seatpost. Its fine for me now and Ill use it for my first few tri's and road rides.

Killahbee did you pick up a bike yet?

 

[KillahBee]

Not yet. Took a few for test rides this weekend though. Rode the Allez Triple and a few versions of the Roubaix.

 

[Dial_tone]

I picked up a bike over the weekend. I went with the Felt F90, their entry level road bike for 620$. I want to use and abuse this bike for a year and if Im still involved in the sport I can buy something better next year. It has the sora gruppo, which Synpax advised against. Carbon fork and seatpost. Its fine for me now and Ill use it for my first few tri's and road rides.

That's really the smart way to do it. My first bike was a $200 Schwinn. My second was a $500 Diamondback and the third was the above one with all cherrypicked parts. I never totaled it but it was probably about $3,500 and that was 10 yrs ago. I got those wheels on Ebay last year for $475 new, almost $200 off.

 

[squatmonkey]

I agree with dial-tone, you should be riding on at least 105-ultegra range. Most frames in that range are worth keeping and upgrading as you wear-out parts. The first upgrade is usualy a good wheel set. A lighter,stiffer wheel set can change the feel,weight,excelleration over-all ride of a bike.

 

[eddymerckx]

eddy merckx....as if you expcted anything different from me

 

[~IVY~]

Specialized.......