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frorider6
New member
Hell fucking yes I went surfing!!!!
My girl bought me a surfing lesson for my birthday and she went too. Actually, I think the guy kinda screwed us on the deal. We spent about an hour talking about a bunch of stuff on shore (which could have been condensed to about 20 minutes) and then only spent about 20 minutes in the water. Whatever. It was just enough to get us started.
Rented a board the next day and hit the water. The surf was 3-5 feet and choppy. New Symrna has 2 breaks, the outer break and the inner break. It was so fucking rough and the waves were coming in so fast that the outer break was just too much work for me and beat me up pretty bad. So I had to spend time on the inner break. It was about a 3 foot wave that built and broke pretty fast in about 3-5 feet of water.
I was on a 9 foot Softboard. It was so fucking heavy and slow! Goddamnit! But that's all people will rent.
Here's how it went for me on my first full day. The waves that I tried to catch before they broke ended up in a fucking nasty wipeout. The wave would pick up the back of my board and bury the nose. Full on front flip followed by some tumbles on the ocean floor ensued. I was able to catch maybe 2 or 3 waves before they broke but I would outrun the wave and it would crash into the back of my legs as I slowed down. Wipeout. The only waves I was able to ride were the ones I caught just after they broke. Paddle paddle paddle, huge crash behind me, hang on until I would pop out of the soup, and then stand up. Not a very long or exciting ride, but I was standing up and surfing.
I'm pretty damn stubborn about doing something and I refused to give up. I don't know how long I was out there that day, but I ended up with some nasty rashes. My forearms and thighs were the worst. They're still scabbed up like road rash. I just didn't know when to quit. I was smart enough to buy a rash guard though.
The next day I tried was at Jacksonville Beach. Lots of fucking shells, which wasn't fun to walk on. The outer break was about 4-6 feet and fucking nasty choppy. No way could I get out there. So I tried to surf the inner break again. But the waves were so fucked up that I never really caught anything and just ended up pissed off.
And wouldn't you know it, the day I left, the wind died down (forgot to mention the 10-15 mph onshore wind), the surf cleaned up and it was a clean 3 foot wave with a decent interval in between waves. Perfect for me to learn on. but I could only sit and watch out the window since we had a lot to do before we left.
I came damn close to buying a board down there. I found one in a surf shop about 3 hours before we had to leave. It wasn't the typical fiberglass board. It was a 7'9" Natural Surf board and cost $299. If I'd seen it the first day of vacation, I'd have bought it. I'll try to post a link for it so you guys can give me your opinions on it.
My girl bought me a surfing lesson for my birthday and she went too. Actually, I think the guy kinda screwed us on the deal. We spent about an hour talking about a bunch of stuff on shore (which could have been condensed to about 20 minutes) and then only spent about 20 minutes in the water. Whatever. It was just enough to get us started.
Rented a board the next day and hit the water. The surf was 3-5 feet and choppy. New Symrna has 2 breaks, the outer break and the inner break. It was so fucking rough and the waves were coming in so fast that the outer break was just too much work for me and beat me up pretty bad. So I had to spend time on the inner break. It was about a 3 foot wave that built and broke pretty fast in about 3-5 feet of water.
I was on a 9 foot Softboard. It was so fucking heavy and slow! Goddamnit! But that's all people will rent.
Here's how it went for me on my first full day. The waves that I tried to catch before they broke ended up in a fucking nasty wipeout. The wave would pick up the back of my board and bury the nose. Full on front flip followed by some tumbles on the ocean floor ensued. I was able to catch maybe 2 or 3 waves before they broke but I would outrun the wave and it would crash into the back of my legs as I slowed down. Wipeout. The only waves I was able to ride were the ones I caught just after they broke. Paddle paddle paddle, huge crash behind me, hang on until I would pop out of the soup, and then stand up. Not a very long or exciting ride, but I was standing up and surfing.
I'm pretty damn stubborn about doing something and I refused to give up. I don't know how long I was out there that day, but I ended up with some nasty rashes. My forearms and thighs were the worst. They're still scabbed up like road rash. I just didn't know when to quit. I was smart enough to buy a rash guard though.
The next day I tried was at Jacksonville Beach. Lots of fucking shells, which wasn't fun to walk on. The outer break was about 4-6 feet and fucking nasty choppy. No way could I get out there. So I tried to surf the inner break again. But the waves were so fucked up that I never really caught anything and just ended up pissed off.
And wouldn't you know it, the day I left, the wind died down (forgot to mention the 10-15 mph onshore wind), the surf cleaned up and it was a clean 3 foot wave with a decent interval in between waves. Perfect for me to learn on. but I could only sit and watch out the window since we had a lot to do before we left.
I came damn close to buying a board down there. I found one in a surf shop about 3 hours before we had to leave. It wasn't the typical fiberglass board. It was a 7'9" Natural Surf board and cost $299. If I'd seen it the first day of vacation, I'd have bought it. I'll try to post a link for it so you guys can give me your opinions on it.
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