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Anyone here a mechanic part 2
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i'm a mechanic, what make year model. are the number 3 and 4 cylinders on the same coil pack? if so your problem is probably there. if u really want pm me i can try to help you out more. i just need more info. i dont feel like typeing out how the system works right now and i need to know year make model to know what system it has. 
Scotsman said:
whoa bro- that is totally over my head.... (sorry new to all this electronic stuff)
everyone is telling me just pop it out and put a new one in cause you can't test it..... (even the store can't test it)
also above-"One of them had the exact same thing happen, the same codes came up and basically he had to replace his engine coil pack and all was good..."
any help is appreciated bro... thx
Scotsman
New member
I don't see how they can't check the induction on the coil. Though ford does make it purposely hard to work on their cars. We have severl trucks at work and they are always needing something fixed that is impossible to do without repacing. The control modules are the little black boxes under the hood usually on the drivers side they control all of your cars functions. One of them is for ignition and timing on new cars so that you don't have to adjust the timing chain anymore. My rule on getting new parts is don't buy the cheapest or the most expensive. The cheapes is probably just that and the most expensive is usually charging for their name.
To get it tested you will probably have to go to a ford garage and they will charge you at least $100 for plugging it into the machine and then telling you what needs to be replaced. So try replacing the coil and then retest cylinder function. Also you can reset the cars computer by unhookind the positive lead from the battery for a minute or two then hooking it back up and restarting the car. That way it will sense the new coil path and prime circuit function for operation. Do this before you retest.
Cheers,
Scotsman
To get it tested you will probably have to go to a ford garage and they will charge you at least $100 for plugging it into the machine and then telling you what needs to be replaced. So try replacing the coil and then retest cylinder function. Also you can reset the cars computer by unhookind the positive lead from the battery for a minute or two then hooking it back up and restarting the car. That way it will sense the new coil path and prime circuit function for operation. Do this before you retest.
Cheers,
Scotsman
Silent Method
New member
First thing that came to my mind when i read that was #1, a faulty coil, and #2, possible distributor problems. The coil malfunction alone can certainly cause misfires, and some bad points distributor are certainly on par with selective cylinder misfires.
There are other posibilities of course, but if it were me I'd replace the coil, clean the points on the distributor, and see what happens.
BTW, if you havent already, pick up the Hayes Automotive Manual for your wife's Mustang. It will outline EVERY step of the process for this kind of work AND detail the electronic systems of your car.
There are other posibilities of course, but if it were me I'd replace the coil, clean the points on the distributor, and see what happens.
BTW, if you havent already, pick up the Hayes Automotive Manual for your wife's Mustang. It will outline EVERY step of the process for this kind of work AND detail the electronic systems of your car.
Silent Method
New member
* You should be able to grab the Hayes manual from Autozone or a similar store for $15 or so.
Buddy_Christ
New member
you can test the voltage drop across the coil. don't ask me how, cause for the life of me i can't remember at the moment. brain is running rough, just like your wife's car.
electricity will find the path of least resistance and follow it every single time. if the problem is with the coil, say maybe it's worn in a spot (weak spot or something), the juice that should run through the wire could actually arc to the block. you'll still get some juice through the wire, but not all that's intended to be there.
don't quote me on this, i could be wrong. i believe to test the voltage drop, you take a multimeter and put one lead on a coil point and the other to the battery, i think to the negative terminal. you do this with the ignition on but car off. check each point. should be looking for around 12V at every point. if it's a multiple coil pack, you replace the bad pack. if it's one big coil, you replace the entire coil.
i'm pretty sure that's how you check the coil. like i said, my brain is running rough tonight. too much other shit on my mind.
good luck, and, uh, don't buy another ford
electricity will find the path of least resistance and follow it every single time. if the problem is with the coil, say maybe it's worn in a spot (weak spot or something), the juice that should run through the wire could actually arc to the block. you'll still get some juice through the wire, but not all that's intended to be there.
don't quote me on this, i could be wrong. i believe to test the voltage drop, you take a multimeter and put one lead on a coil point and the other to the battery, i think to the negative terminal. you do this with the ignition on but car off. check each point. should be looking for around 12V at every point. if it's a multiple coil pack, you replace the bad pack. if it's one big coil, you replace the entire coil.
i'm pretty sure that's how you check the coil. like i said, my brain is running rough tonight. too much other shit on my mind.
good luck, and, uh, don't buy another ford
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