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question about clay bar on car finish.

Yes, claying will remove most wax/sealants.

When you clay to remove bug/tree sap you have to reapply wax/sealant.
 
I just clayed my 1996 Audi Black....

Actually worked amazing! Will make sure when i wash my car by hand on detail day i HAVE to clay bar. There was so much grim on the car that it was crazy...

Now the car is smooth as hell like glass....

since it took me 2+ hrs to clay the bar, i used tutle wax black polish to get into any scratches....

Car is VERY SHINY.

Next time i plan on doing this i will get out my buffer and really wax the shit out of her...
 
mm107 said:
I just clayed my 1996 Audi Black....

Actually worked amazing! Will make sure when i wash my car by hand on detail day i HAVE to clay bar. There was so much grim on the car that it was crazy...

Now the car is smooth as hell like glass....

since it took me 2+ hrs to clay the bar, i used tutle wax black polish to get into any scratches....

Car is VERY SHINY.

Next time i plan on doing this i will get out my buffer and really wax the shit out of her...

I'm actually not a big fan of claying. I usually only clay when my vehicle is brand new to remove rail dust from transit. It only takes me 10-15 minutes to clay.

Occassionaly I'll use clay to remove bugs ... that's about it.
 
juiceddreadlocks said:
Is the finished supposed to be as clean as possible, with the wax/sealant removed?


Dishwashing liquid is a great pre-clay step. Wash your vehicle with it to strip it down to the clearcoat, then clay it. And fuck that "throw it away if you drop the bar" bullshit. Keep a new, sharp razor blade handy and just trim off a thin slice of the part that hits the ground if you drop it.
 
PICK3 said:
I'm actually not a big fan of claying. I usually only clay when my vehicle is brand new to remove rail dust from transit. It only takes me 10-15 minutes to clay.

Occassionaly I'll use clay to remove bugs ... that's about it.

I've put around 12-15k miles on my truck this summer. I have washed and washed and treated and pre washed my finish and cant get all the bugs out of it. I'm trying to get it as clean as possible to sell it. It's got a bunch of swirls in the finish also.
 
juiceddreadlocks said:
I've put around 12-15k miles on my truck this summer. I have washed and washed and treated and pre washed my finish and cant get all the bugs out of it. I'm trying to get it as clean as possible to sell it. It's got a bunch of swirls in the finish also.

If the bug damage pitted the clearcoat there's not much you can do.

Usually "swirls" aren't a big factor in white paint.

Do you have a Porter Cable or rotary buffer?
 
PICK3 said:
If the bug damage pitted the clearcoat there's not much you can do.

Usually "swirls" aren't a big factor in white paint.

Do you have a Porter Cable or rotary buffer?
I have an orbital buffer... but it's a cheap one that doesn work for shit. I've never even used it on this vehicle. Do you think it's worth my time to clay the vehicle. I dont remember what hte porter cable is, but I remember reading about it. IS that a multiple sized buffer or polisher?
 
I fell into the marketing trap and got some ''ice'' wax from Oreillys... I think it's a new Turtle Wax product.

Know anything about it.
 
juiceddreadlocks said:
I fell into the marketing trap and got some ''ice'' wax from Oreillys... I think it's a new Turtle Wax product.

Know anything about it.

A Porter Cable (PC) is a DA (dual action) random orbital buffer that has a very small learning curve. Since the action is random it doesn't generate enough heat in one spot to worry about "burning" clearcoats. With a backing plate and a few pads it can be had for approx. $200

Like I said, I'm not a big fan of claying ... you'll have limited success on dried on bugs that's been there for awhile.

I haven't tried TW Ice but if your finish is properly prepared (polished) OTC products can provide a nice topping although probably not as durable as some of my professional products.
 
if you use good car wax and use it every 6 months then dirt and other stuff should come off alot easier without the clay bar. i only use clay bar only when all else fails.

zymol is great car wax, i read good things about zaino, and car brite's final finish is the best stuff i've ever used. the stuff makes your vehicle shine like a mirror.
 
PICK3 said:
not really

Where else can you read so many good things about Zanio? bahahahaha. Driving too much lately, dont have a free day to devote to getting my truck where I need it to sell it.
 
juiceddreadlocks said:
Where else can you read so many good things about Zanio? bahahahaha. Driving too much lately, dont have a free day to devote to getting my truck where I need it to sell it.

Have you ever used the whole Zaino system?

Really if you're gonna sell it I'd use a cleaner wax (1 step product).
 
PICK3 said:
Have you ever used the whole Zaino system?

Really if you're gonna sell it I'd use a cleaner wax (1 step product).
I really dont know what all the hwole Zanio system entails... but no regardless.
 
juiceddreadlocks said:
I really dont know what all the hwole Zanio system entails... but no regardless.

It's fairly expensive. It calls for a Dawn dishwashing liquid wash first (like RW mentioned). It produces a very shiney finish, but many feel it's too sterile and top it with a carnuba wax anyways.

Most of the Pros on Autopia aren't Zaino fans, but newbie car zealots flock to it and always will.
 
I washed my wifes 1.5 yr Old black SUV with regular Turtle wax car wash,
then clayed it immed afterwards. WoW with the surface being clean, slick
and ready to accept a quality wax afterwards.

Stuff (clay) seems strange in concept, but it does work..
 
I used to do high end detailing when I was a kid...

wash w/ harsh soap
then clay
then polish (high power orbital w/ various abbrassiveness, usually medium, fine, superfine... I would NEVER leave polish swirls)
Then Wax w/ usually 3m pro products.
Best part about a nice detail is seeing people's response when you do a GOOD job clay/polishing their paint... it's insane what you can do to an old beater w/ a good buff.

z
 
PICK3 said:
It's fairly expensive. It calls for a Dawn dishwashing liquid wash first (like RW mentioned). It produces a very shiney finish, but many feel it's too sterile and top it with a carnuba wax anyways.

Most of the Pros on Autopia aren't Zaino fans, but newbie car zealots flock to it and always will.

like i said, i never tried zaino. i'm not going to try out every wax on the planet. there are guys i know that do auto body and they use some stuff that can even take out the orange peel look from a paint job that wasn't properly wet sanded or painted. it won't look like a mercedes benz paint job but it will still look much better.
 
fistfullofsteel said:
like i said, i never tried zaino. i'm not going to try out every wax on the planet. there are guys i know that do auto body and they use some stuff that can even take out the orange peel look from a paint job that wasn't properly wet sanded or painted. it won't look like a mercedes benz paint job but it will still look much better.

makes sense to me

oh yeah ... the Giants suck!
 
PICK3 said:
If the bug damage pitted the clearcoat there's not much you can do.

Usually "swirls" aren't a big factor in white paint.

Do you have a Porter Cable or rotary buffer?

He could try an acid. Just keep it away from the glass to prevent etching.
 
dirty~d~ said:
He could try an acid. Just keep it away from the glass to prevent etching.

1) What acid, are you on drugs? If bug/tar/sap damage is through the clear coat ... you're fucked

2) Glass is tougher than painted finishes. I've used #0000 steel wool on glass with polish to get out water etching.
 
pick3 I'll giveu 30 bucks to wash/wax mine
you can use that for drinkin' money
 
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