credit union is the one who asked me for 150% deposit for a secured card, bank of america, chase, etc big banks wont give me cards, hence why i was thinking capital one, im sure i can get approved through them, i have a 700+ score but not enough revolving accounts...
Do you not listen to anything that I say? I'm gonna explain this in more detail. If you don't get it after this I give up.
1. How you Pay your bills makes up for 35% of your scoreSo...Paying your bills on time accounts for 35%. I assume you do that so I will leave that alone
2. The amount you owe and your available credit limit make up 30%The amount you owe and your available credit is simple. You don't have any Installment loans (on file) so to make it easy we'll hypothetically give you a couple credit cards.
So say you have 2 credit cards with $5,000 limits, so you have $10,000 in available credit. If you $7500 charged between the 2 cards you're at a 75% Utilization (not good).
Not to mention that statistically people with a lot of credit tend to use it. While that really doesn't affect your score it isn't all that attractive to lenders.
3. Length of Credit makes up 15%The third factor is the length of your credit history. The longer you've had credit -- particularly if it's with the same credit issuers -- the more points you get.
Remember how I told you that you've only had your secured card for 7 months and to be patient? Remember, slow and steady.
4. Mix of Credit is 10%The best scores will have a mix of both revolving credit, such as credit cards, and installment credit, such as mortgages and car loans.
I don't know exactly what all you have, but it sounds to me as though all you have is that one secured card. See why I keep telling you that you'd benefit more from an installment loan than to keep applying for Revolving credit?
Statistically, consumers with a richer variety of experiences are better credit risks. While this isn't a factor in determining your score a lot of revolving credit lines make lenders today leary. It shows the possibility for rapidly increasing indebtedness.
5. New credit applications is 10%The final category is your interest in new credit. How many credit applications you're filling out. The model compensates for people who are rate shopping for the best mortgage or car loan rates (not revolving accounts) in a 30 day window.
I'm not sure if this will apply to your situation, but here it is anyways. The only time shopping really hurts your score, is when you have previous recent credit stumbles, such as late payments or bills sent to collections.
Then, looking for new credit will be seen as an alarm because statistically, before people declare bankruptcy and default on everything, they look for a life preserver.
This however does apply to you, and if the above does as well double whammy. If you have a very young credit file, an inquiry can count for more than if you've had credit for a long time.
Now that is how you get your score. Lenders use that information, and information that has nothing to do w/your credit score (time on job, length of residence, income, etc) to determine your credit worthiness.
The problem you're running into is that you have a thin file. Your score is good, but there isn't enough in there to give a lender a picture of how you will preform.
I still think an installment loan is your best bet. Now, without a qualified co-signer it can be tough to do. Reason being is even tho you have a strong FICO score your $500 credit card (or whatever it is) isn't enough. If you tried to get say an auto loan you would be turned down for "no comparible credit". Basically, They don't know how you will pay on $10,000 note because all you've ever made payments on was a small revolving balance.
Getting a larger revolving balance isn't the answer either because then you'll just raise your available credit lines and in order to have comparible credit you'd have to use them at an extremely high utilization percentage. Even then you'd be screwed because it would throw your debt to income (DTI) out of whack.
So what can you do w/o a cosigner to get comparible credit? Well, you have a couple options. The easiest would be to come out of pocket. By that I mean if you say were going to try and go buy a car show up with large down payment. There comes a point in which the lenders will give you a loan (and report to your credit) even if you have a thin file. If you're putting enough money down it ends up really not being much of a risk at all to the lender.