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Car Buying Services

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Anyone use one of those internet auto purchasing services where you just pick a car and somebody else returns with the best price? Just wondering if they beat actually haggling, if you have to pick from current stock or pick what options you want. My insurance co. USAA has one.
 
The secret to buying a car, new or used, is to be completely educated about what your buying. Pick your car on the internet, know the features, mileage, etc. Go to kbb.com to find the blue book price or dealer invoice, talk to your bank first and know the interest rates; that way the salesman has nothing over you and you can just make the offer and walk away.

I haven't had to haggle the last 4 cars I bought, I just tell the dealer what I'm willing to give for a car. 3 of the 4 times they took the deal on the spot, the 1 other time they called 2 days later and accepted my offer.
 
The secret to buying a car, new or used, is to be completely educated about what your buying. Pick your car on the internet, know the features, mileage, etc. Go to kbb.com to find the blue book price or dealer invoice, talk to your bank first and know the interest rates; that way the salesman has nothing over you and you can just make the offer and walk away.

I haven't had to haggle the last 4 cars I bought, I just tell the dealer what I'm willing to give for a car. 3 of the 4 times they took the deal on the spot, the 1 other time they called 2 days later and accepted my offer.


No wonder they're accepting your offers...KBB is 95% of the time thousands higher than NADA (which is the book nearly every dealer uses). Which is also the same book that MOST banks go off of as well.

Also, your banks are bumping your rates just as the dealers are too, so that's not really going to help you much at all. (Banks are in it to make money too). Also, the majority of the time the Dealer can crush your personal banks interest rate simply because they do so much volume with certain banks they can get better rates. For example, One of my banks (pending you have good credit) is offering 3.99% where as most local banks in this area are offering 6.5% and up.

At any rate, there are ways to save money. But going in there knowing what KBB isn't the best way.

As far as those sites are concerned DT...Certain dealers pay to be able to "compete on the price" so you won't get a full spectrum of dealers with similar inventory because not all of them pay for that service.

Besides, typically a dealers first pencil is never there best offer.
 
I'm thinking about going to Miami and buying a new car, anything 4x4 and 1999 or up here in CR is at least $12k.... which is fucking nuts.... thinking of going to FL and buy a Ford F150-F250, Dodge Ram 1500, Ford Ranger, Chevrolet pick up, etc pretty much looking for 4x4 pick up that can fit 4 people.... I've seen pretty good deals on local craigslist from miami area but many are dealers and I'm sure they are so low just to lure you to the dealer's.... *sigh* want a new car.... :(
 
Okay,

Here is an example of a car I randomly picked out of my inventory. Attached is both NADA, and KBB. Kelly Blue Book being $1,800 higher for the exact same car.


Like I said, don't use KBB in your negotiations. It's almost always a losing battle.
 
I'm thinking about going to Miami and buying a new car, anything 4x4 and 1999 or up here in CR is at least $12k.... which is fucking nuts.... thinking of going to FL and buy a Ford F150-F250, Dodge Ram 1500, Ford Ranger, Chevrolet pick up, etc pretty much looking for 4x4 pick up that can fit 4 people.... I've seen pretty good deals on local craigslist from miami area but many are dealers and I'm sure they are so low just to lure you to the dealer's.... *sigh* want a new car.... :(

Nan,


A lot of dealers are using CL nowadays to move inventory. Why not, it's free! I occasionally will advertise on CL, but that is usually only with some aged inventory that I need to move. Even then it's typically a last resort before the car goes to auction. I assume other dealers are using it as the same "last resort" tool. The reason I say that is CL is very competitive and unless the Dealer got a hell of a deal on auction or trade on that unit it's pretty hard to hold much of a gross on CL.

Also, another thing to be weary about on CL is that dealers will take some POS car and won't disclose everything in the ad, and you show up to find it has mismatched tires, been keyed down the side, and is a salvage title. LOL!

If it's too good to be true, it probably is.
 
The secret to buying a car, new or used, is to be completely educated about what your buying. Pick your car on the internet, know the features, mileage, etc. Go to kbb.com to find the blue book price or dealer invoice, talk to your bank first and know the interest rates; that way the salesman has nothing over you and you can just make the offer and walk away.

I haven't had to haggle the last 4 cars I bought, I just tell the dealer what I'm willing to give for a car. 3 of the 4 times they took the deal on the spot, the 1 other time they called 2 days later and accepted my offer.
If people are accepting your first offer it's because you're paying too much. I impressed myself with my negotiation skills last time out. I just wonder if a service would do at least as well as I could without the hassle of driving all over L.A. to do it. I'd pay an extra $500 just to avoid that.
 
If people are accepting your first offer it's because you're paying too much. I impressed myself with my negotiation skills last time out. I just wonder if a service would do at least as well as I could without the hassle of driving all over L.A. to do it. I'd pay an extra $500 just to avoid that.


DT-

are you looking at a new car or a used?


If it's a new car look up all the dealers of the make you're looking at in your area. Tell them what you want and to email/fax you a buyers order with their absolute best price.

Let them know up front that you're shopping and the dealer that delivers the best price wins. That is really the best way to do it.

If it's a used car...well..Unfortunately, you'll have to visit each dealership to properly compare vehicles. Otherwise you won't get an apples to apples comparison.

What are you looking at getting? if it's used I can pretty much tell you what dealers are paying for them in your area right now.
 
DT-

are you looking at a new car or a used?


If it's a new car look up all the dealers of the make you're looking at in your area. Tell them what you want and to email/fax you a buyers order with their absolute best price.

Let them know up front that you're shopping and the dealer that delivers the best price wins. That is really the best way to do it.

If it's a used car...well..Unfortunately, you'll have to visit each dealership to properly compare vehicles. Otherwise you won't get an apples to apples comparison.

What are you looking at getting? if it's used I can pretty much tell you what dealers are paying for them in your area right now.

^^^
This seems like its getting closer to the most logical way to proceed.

olololol! @ all generalized advice spanning different brands and models and local economies.

try making the same deal on a Honda product in a localized booming economy as you can in a depressed local economy on a Chrysler product now :rolleyes:
 
^^^
This seems like its getting closer to the most logical way to proceed.

olololol! @ all generalized advice spanning different brands and models and local economies.

try making the same deal on a Honda product in a localized booming economy as you can in a depressed local economy on a Chrysler product now :rolleyes:

are you rolling your eyes at me bish?


my advice is on point, ngr.
 
I was settled on new since I tend to keep cars 8-10 years. Lately I started thinking I can get more car if I buy used. I really need/want to stay under $30K but that puts me below the cars I like - Lexus IS 250, Infiniti G35/37, Audi A4, etc. If I buy a 2008/2009 next year I could get a lot of car.

For new I'd have to settle for a loaded Accord, stripped Acura TSX, etc.
 
I was settled on new since I tend to keep cars 8-10 years. Lately I started thinking I can get more car if I buy used. I really need/want to stay under $30K but that puts me below the cars I like - Lexus IS 250, Infiniti G35/37, Audi A4, etc. If I buy a 2008/2009 next year I could get a lot of car.

For new I'd have to settle for a loaded Accord, stripped Acura TSX, etc.

DT..

the 08 G35's with around 8k miles in mint condition are going for about 27g's on the west coast. (I think that's where you are).

Edit:Just check...the 08 IS250 with 8k miles are bringing 28,700 on the west coast.
 
DT..

the 08 G35's with around 8k miles in mint condition are going for about 27g's on the west coast. (I think that's where you are).

Edit:Just check...the 08 IS250 with 8k miles are bringing 28,700 on the west coast.
Yeah, I'm hoping by mid/late 2010 there will be G37's around that price.
 
Okay,

Here is an example of a car I randomly picked out of my inventory. Attached is both NADA, and KBB. Kelly Blue Book being $1,800 higher for the exact same car.


Like I said, don't use KBB in your negotiations. It's almost always a losing battle.

Thanks for the tip on the NADA Bluebook. Except I just bought a used 2009 Pontiac Vibe AWD and they don't show a value for it.

It has 14,000 miles on it. I paid $16,500 and financed at zero down, 5.0% for 48 months.

How'd I do?
 
Thanks for the tip on the NADA Bluebook. Except I just bought a used 2009 Pontiac Vibe AWD and they don't show a value for it.

It has 14,000 miles on it. I paid $16,500 and financed at zero down, 5.0% for 48 months.

How'd I do?

You bought a pontiac vibe bro......I dont think I even need to tell you how you did...
 
Thanks for the tip on the NADA Bluebook. Except I just bought a used 2009 Pontiac Vibe AWD and they don't show a value for it.

It has 14,000 miles on it. I paid $16,500 and financed at zero down, 5.0% for 48 months.

How'd I do?


umm...honestly, you didn't do well. Interest rate is fair, but as far as the price of the car you didn't get a great deal. I just sold the exact same car a month or so ago for 14,500 with the same mileage.

Seeing how the price of used cars is going up though, I don't think you got screwed, just not an awesome deal.
 
You bought a pontiac vibe bro......I dont think I even need to tell you how you did...

The vibe (although butt ugly) isn't really that bad of a car. They did a lot of improvement on them over the originals. Plus with them being pretty much all Toyota parts it's way cheaper than a matrix
 
The vibe (although butt ugly) isn't really that bad of a car. They did a lot of improvement on them over the originals. Plus with them being pretty much all Toyota parts it's way cheaper than a matrix

yeah but you'd have to debadge it before u got home atleast....
 
umm...honestly, you didn't do well. Interest rate is fair, but as far as the price of the car you didn't get a great deal. I just sold the exact same car a month or so ago for 14,500 with the same mileage.

Seeing how the price of used cars is going up though, I don't think you got screwed, just not an awesome deal.

Where I live we average 220 inches/year of snow so the AWD is in big demand. I could only find two within 100 miles; both listed at $18,000.

The Syracuse dealer wouldn't go below $17,800. The Albany car had lower miles and the Sun and Sound package. That dealer took my offer of $16,500. So I figure I paid a fair price.
 
Where I live we average 220 inches/year of snow so the AWD is in big demand. I could only find two within 100 miles; both listed at $18,000.

The Syracuse dealer wouldn't go below $17,800. The Albany car had lower miles and the Sun and Sound package. That dealer took my offer of $16,500. So I figure I paid a fair price.

If you think you got a good that's all that matters.
 
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