That puke just about made me puke. barefoot too. Your poor thing... Thanks for the pics I love the ocean. But wouldn't surf, I am to afraid of sharks...
The only thing I was catching was my breath from paddling. For those that don't surf - you have no idea how difficult and how much of a workout paddling around the ocean is. Also, I am not very experienced, so out of the few decent waves I caught, I was really just trying to stand up for longer then 3 seconds. Regardless, just chillin in the middle of the ocean by yourself is phenomenal.
i grew up living on the coast, surfed from my early teens and taught surfing as a summer job down in Cornwall for a few seasons. When i finished uni i left the UK and went on a long surfing holiday to meet up with a few friends and surf some of the waves i'd read about and seen so many pictures of in the surf mags. I went to the Canary Islands for a month, Indo for 3 months and Oz for a year. Surfing almost all the time, sometimes holed up in a secluded spot for weeks where i'd settle into a routine of nothing but surfing for 4-6 hours a day, fishing, snorkling, eating and sleeping. I have never been in as physically good shape and charged as i was after that surfing holiday. It's not only the constant paddling, it's also the explosive action needed to pull yourself into a wave and the power from your trunk and legs to drive yourself along a wave and pull those big turns.
i'm glad at least a few others on here have shared the experience of riding along a wave
ive been to the atlantic (florida and ny) might as well just let me go to a wave pool ....
my cousin worked at a surf/skate shop in corona and they had a catalog out and i guess most of the surf catalogs mailed out went to places like delaware and florida and tame atlantic spots.... why ? why ?