I was surfing on June 6th this past year. There was a hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico and the waves were ledging at about 8 feet, which makes the face almost 16 feet. I know this is not an enormous wave, but for what we are accustomed to riding this is like triple the size.
Anyways, we were out about 300 yards from shore, and it was like a washing machine, I couldn't see shit! The first wave I saw was forming nice, and fast, I started to paddle into the wave, and before I know it, it had pulled me to the top and I was looking down a face of about 14 feet. My board was parrallel to the water, which is not a good thing on a wave of that size. I dropped at about 30 miles an hour, did a bottom turn to try and come back up the wave. The wave saw it otherwise, she was not gonna let me manipulate her, as the wave speed up, my board was sandbaggin, so the white water caught up to me and threw me off my board and under the wave. I honestly was held under for about 3 to 4 minutes. It was pitch black under the water, and I didn't know which way was up. I tried to blow a bubble to follow it to the top, but that didn't work, as I could see much of anything. I finally grabbed my ankle to feel for my leash, as I grabbed it, the next wave rolled over and pushed me back down another 5 feet or so. I was pulling as hard as I could on my leash to try and activate my board, so it could help me surface. After about 1 minute of tug of war with my leash, I was on the surface of the water, gasping for air. I saw my board, which was about 4 feet away from me, I kicked my leg back so the board would come to me. Once it was near, I climbed on, and started to paddle back out to the break.
the rest of the session, went just fine, but that first set will always remind me that I am in natures hands, and I have to be gun shy just as much as I want to be gun ho!!!!