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we have any car audio peeps here?

Buddy_Christ

Buddy_Christ

New member
gonna be doing what should be a kick ass install in a few weeks.

Alpine 7939 Tuner (old school head unit)
Alpine CHA 1214 changer (tuner won't play CDRs, changer will)
2 PPI 12" C1 subs, sealed box (will be replaced with something better eventually)
Kenwood mono amp (300x1 @ 2ohms)
Elemental Designs 6500s - 6.5" midrange, 1" silk dome tweeter
Elemental Designs NINe.2 amp - 100x2 @ 4ohms

havn't gotten coaxils for the rear yet. when i do, i'll bridge down a Kenwood 25x4 to run 50x2 and power them up just for some sound back there, mainly so my kids can hear the tunes (i keep it quiet when they're in the car).

eD was running a Pre-Order combo deal - components and amp for $380, 3 year warranty, free shipping. Price on that combo went up to $425 now. the components alone sell for $450.

my little Civic should be totally awesome when i'm done with all of this. rebuilding the trunk floor for the install. gotta drill a hole in the firewall for the power cable unless i find a hole before hand (havn't had any luck so far).

still need new RCA cables, speaker wire, inline fuse or circuit breaker (i'd prefer a circuit breaker but can't seem to find one for this application) and a few CDs

IASCA Sound Quality CD

IASCA Max db CD (i'd like to tune my subs right and see what they're capable of). i've used the subs for almost 2 years now and i know they give good thump, but i'd like to test them with a comp CD to really see what they can do and figure out where to cut them off (ie - use subsonic filter on the amp or not).

and this CD The Great Fantasy-Adventure Album. This CD is absolutely awesome. 5 tracks go down to 5 hz. the T-Rex tracks are unfuckingbelievable. the first time i heard the T-Rex track, i was in a buddy's car (who used to compete). i thought the T-Rex was standing outside the car...that's how damn real it sounded and how hard the thumps were. remember that scene in Jurassic Park where the kids were in the car and the glass of water was shaking? his side mirrors were doing that, yet i couldn't hear a thing til it started getting louder. totally kick ass stuff!
 
12 inch sub - Rockford Fosgate
500 watt JBL Amp
Monsoon Sound

all in a little GTI Hatchbac. Bumps perfectly.
 
Audio has never been a priority for me. I love custom/tuned cars but I'd rather spend the $$$ on some headers/cat-back exhaust. Anything over 1000$ on audio is crazy, unless it's a showcar IMHO.
 
manny78 said:
Audio has never been a priority for me. I love custom/tuned cars but I'd rather spend the $$$ on some headers/cat-back exhaust. Anything over 1000$ on audio is crazy, unless it's a showcar IMHO.
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I cant agree more. I dropped like 3 grand into my GTI already.

*R32 Front Bumper*Neuspeed 28mm Rear Sway*APR Chip*Cold Air Intake*Forge DV*Diesel Geel SS*Greddy Turbo Timer*Hella Smoked Tails*Smoked Side Markers*Smoked Bumper Markers*Rear Black VW Badge*Black Kamei Sport Grill*Porsche Rear Turbo Badge*

http://www.pifiu.com/upload/uploads/102004/Angled2.jpg
 
My 300zx has.

Pioneer head unit DEPH 7200
Rewired car internals
Ported enclosures in the doors running 6.5 inch infinities
Ported enclosures in the back also runinng 6.5 inch infinities
Center channel sound.

Then there's a 1/4 farrat cap behind the head unit and a 1 farrat cap in the back.
A 600 watt amp powers the DV Bazooka tube in the rear. I built this system to be civilised and mature. I like the way it sounds and thumps when needed.
 
GREGORY said:
LOL! Kraco! I had one of those back in the day in my Hyundai excel, ahh the memories.
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my shit's like POW, homes. bitches be jumping in my ride twenny fo seven and I"m like baby I'm a woman yo, I dont roll like that
 
manny78 said:
Audio has never been a priority for me. I love custom/tuned cars but I'd rather spend the $$$ on some headers/cat-back exhaust. Anything over 1000$ on audio is crazy, unless it's a showcar IMHO.
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Well i got that too.

K&N FIPIK
Stillen X Pipe 304 SS exhaut.
Unorthodox Aluminum pulleys
Stronger Clutch with more agressive disk
Etc etc etc..
 
manny78 said:
Audio has never been a priority for me. I love custom/tuned cars but I'd rather spend the $$$ on some headers/cat-back exhaust. Anything over 1000$ on audio is crazy, unless it's a showcar IMHO.
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there's no point in me doing performance mods on my car. it's an 03 Civic Sedan EX. 127hp, 114 lb-ft of torque, 5 spd. the only mod i'd consider doing would be dropping a worked H22 in there (something kicking out 325+ hp) and a 6spd. seeing as how that's waaaaaaayyyy out of my price range right now, i'll pass.

i've always wanted to have a really nice system in the car. to this point, i've always had something that sounded better than the stock system, but was just loud, not really clean. the front speakers/amp i'm running should be extremely clean.

once i can afford to throw more into it, i'll probably end up spending $600+ for a pair of new subs and more powerful amp to push them.

i want people to leave my car having an auditory experience that they'll never forget. the first few times i heard high quality car stereos, i was giddy as a school girl. i guess i have this desire for high quality sound because i used to play guitar practically non-stop. music has always been a big part of my life. i actually get annoyed when my cell starts ringing in the car cause i have to turn the stereo off to answer the damn thing.
 
sconoscuito said:
elemental designs is good, I got my subs from them.
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which ones? the O or K series? i'm having a hard time deciding which i'd want. plus if i ran one of their NINe.1 amps....900watts of subs is more than i need. i'd have to get two and wire them down to 4 ohms with the NINe.1 amp (450watts @ 4 ohms). that'd be plenty of bass.

saw their online videos where they showed the excursion of their subs...un-fuckin-real. those things get moving big time. makes me really wonder just how much pounding i could get with a pair in a sealed enclosure.



juicedpigtails said:
what are you going to do to get the amount of current you need to your amps?
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4 gauge wire should be plenty. i was using 8 guage when i was running 2 amps and never had a problem. seeing as how i'm bumping up to 3 amps on this install, i'm going down to 4 gauge just to be safe. when i add better subs and a more powerful amp, i'll probably have to add a capacitor or put a second battery somewhere, maybe both just to be safe.
 
crak600 said:
which ones? the O or K series? i'm having a hard time deciding which i'd want. plus if i ran one of their NINe.1 amps....900watts of subs is more than i need. i'd have to get two and wire them down to 4 ohms with the NINe.1 amp (450watts @ 4 ohms). that'd be plenty of bass.

saw their online videos where they showed the excursion of their subs...un-fuckin-real. those things get moving big time. makes me really wonder just how much pounding i could get with a pair in a sealed enclosure.





4 gauge wire should be plenty. i was using 8 guage when i was running 2 amps and never had a problem. seeing as how i'm bumping up to 3 amps on this install, i'm going down to 4 gauge just to be safe. when i add better subs and a more powerful amp, i'll probably have to add a capacitor or put a second battery somewhere, maybe both just to be safe.
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is your current alternator setup going to suffice???? bor, go to 2 gauge or 0 gauge. too much resistance trying to run 3 amps off the same wire.
 
alternator will be fine with the subs. they couldn't make the lights blink in my Blazer, they won't do a damn thing to my Civic.

4 gauge should be plenty. i knew a guy that had a 500 watt setup (early 90s PPI amps, some of the absolute fucking BEST you'll ever see) and he was running 8 gauge, no capacitor, no beefy alternator, nothing like that.

4 gauge should be just fine and dandy for main power.
 
I got their cheapest shit which was kx series I think, (flat cone)they dont make those anymore.

2 12s, with soundstream amp I believe. My roomate has 2 jl 12w3 in a vented box and he asked me to trade him my system for his. k's sound about the same, maybe even better except that 12w3 get little louder. Than again I've only heard them in a vented box so I dont know how they would sound in a sealed box. Either way, I spent around 300-400 bucks for all my stuff while he spent close to 800-900 and at the end we got same sounding systems. Plus you dont need as much power as most other subs out there. Rap, Rock, Clasic or anything you take will sound great. All the other installs that I've seen in my friends trucks sucked ass, all the rockford fostgate shit is garbage, maybe some of their amps can turn out decent but subs suck. Funny thing was when the dudes that installed my subs started making fun of them and how cheap I got them for, joking about how they will prolly sound like shit and I shoulda gotten something mainstream. You shoulda seen the looks on their faces afterwards

oh and after 1 month no matter how good your system is you will most likely turn that shit down anyway after you end up with a headache everytime you get in your car.
 
Crak600, it`s cool to do something that moves you bro. Keep it up.

I don`t know anything about car audio but wanted to know if those CD`s you mentioned were any good for a home system? Just for showing it off and stuff. Seeing what it can do, how low the bass goes? I already have a calibration DVD, so I can see the settings like bass and stuff, but would like to hear it in musical or other varieties.
 
crak600 said:
alternator will be fine with the subs. they couldn't make the lights blink in my Blazer, they won't do a damn thing to my Civic.

4 gauge should be plenty. i knew a guy that had a 500 watt setup (early 90s PPI amps, some of the absolute fucking BEST you'll ever see) and he was running 8 gauge, no capacitor, no beefy alternator, nothing like that.

4 gauge should be just fine and dandy for main power.
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orb, you are crazy.
 
97 Mitsu Eclipse GST.... Alpine Head-(2) Kicker KX 6.5 Component Systems, one in the front door panels and one set in custom enclosures molded into the factory brackets in the rear, (3) Orion XTR 10's - (1) Kicker 1200.1 on the subs (1) Digital Audio 4 channel on the mids and highs back seat is removed and i built a rack that houses amps, crossovers for components, additional Stinger SPV44 battery all flush mounted with Stinger distro blocks. Under the hood is another Stinger SPV 44 with Stinger Expert series Battery terminals and an Expert Series 200A Fuse Holder that i mounted on a custom bracket next to the battery. 0 gauge wiring throughout with Stinger RCA's. Since i dont smoke i mounted the gain control for the sub amp in my ash tray :)

Planning an install on my Ext. Cab 02 Chevy Xtreme S10... 4 15's this time
 
If I could afford it I would make it even better but this is what I have and it sounds great:

In my Clio -

Kenwood MP3 disk player (better than a changer :) )
280 Watts Kenwood back speakers on a wooden panel
220 watts JBL front speakers Component with crossover.
Volcano 800 watt amp 4 channels for all the speakers.
No sub woofer and probably won't be able t oafford one for at least a year, still as I said, it sounds amazing and clear even at high volumes. Luv it!
 
crak600 said:
there's no point in me doing performance mods on my car. it's an 03 Civic Sedan EX. 127hp, 114 lb-ft of torque, 5 spd. the only mod i'd consider doing would be dropping a worked H22 in there (something kicking out 325+ hp) and a 6spd. seeing as how that's waaaaaaayyyy out of my price range right now, i'll pass.

i've always wanted to have a really nice system in the car. to this point, i've always had something that sounded better than the stock system, but was just loud, not really clean. the front speakers/amp i'm running should be extremely clean.

once i can afford to throw more into it, i'll probably end up spending $600+ for a pair of new subs and more powerful amp to push them.

i want people to leave my car having an auditory experience that they'll never forget. the first few times i heard high quality car stereos, i was giddy as a school girl. i guess i have this desire for high quality sound because i used to play guitar practically non-stop. music has always been a big part of my life. i actually get annoyed when my cell starts ringing in the car cause i have to turn the stereo off to answer the damn thing.
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I know exactly what you mean. I enjoy the high quality of sound so much I feel high while driving. I find myself driving slower than I used to just so I have more quality time in the car listening to music. Its gotten to the point that I leave the house earlier then I need to for work, just so I can take my time getting thier with full volume blasting all the way. HAHA, I am considering turning off my phone while in the car.
 
sconoscuito - there's guys on another forum that took advantage of the eD combo deals and all have subs/amps on the way. i'm waiting to hear from some of them how the new Kv2 series is. i don't think i can go wrong with them though. i'm dying to get my components installed and give them a run.

and i'll never turn it down. i had audiobahn speakers, the PPI subs, and Kenwood amps in my Blazer and it was always at full tilt. did that for a year and a half. crappy stock stereo in my Honda has got to go.


GL - you could use them i suppose. the SPL CD will tear shit up if you aren't careful. the SQ CD i was told should give you a great idea about left/rights, as well as a good idea of how clean and clear your setup is. the Fantasy CD, well, be careful with the T-Rex tracks. there's warnings all over the back of that CD about how it goes down to 5 hz and WILL blow out a system. but yeah, i don't see why you couldn't use it at home.


JPT - you're fuckin high man.


Jaywill - how are the kicker components? it sounds like you've got one hell of a setup. got pics?


Allon - hit up ebay. i picked up the pair of PPI subs for about $125 shipped. the price on them is still pretty low on ebay too. if you can, go for the C2s. they handle more power. plus the kenwood mono amp i have, i got that along with a Kenwood 25x4 amp for maybe $110 shipped. yes, ebay again. the amps were used, the subs were brand spankin new. to be honest with you, the PPIs aren't bad at all. sure, i'd rather have Boston Acoustics subs or something even better, but as far as thump for the buck, they're good.

back in the day, a friend of mine competed with JBL components in a little Dodge Shadow. good stuff, definetly better than your mainstream speakers.
 
i got a sweet stereo in the vette. i will take a picture and show you. its all rockford and kicker. very sweet.
 
wootoom said:
i got a sweet stereo in the vette. i will take a picture and show you. its all rockford and kicker. very sweet.
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i've debated on Kicker subs, but i don't think i'll go that route. those square ones have a low sensitivity (85 or 87db).

whatever i go with next will definetly be Dual Voice Coils for more flexibility in the system. when that time comes, i need to write down all the possible configurations for 2 and 4 ohm DVC subs and see what options i have. of course i'll get an amp that's 1 ohm stable, but i'd like to have the subs wired down to 2ohms at the lowest just to be safe. plus i don't need 1200watts of sub power. 500 should be about the max needed for an every day car. my Blazer thumped hard with 300 watts of sub power, 500 would be totally sweet.
 
wootoom said:
my subs arent kicker though. my amps are.
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gotcha.

i hope the eD amp i have is nice and clean for the front speakers. if so, i'll get their mono amp for subs when i upgrade. if i'm not satisfied with the amp, i'll go the route of PPI. can't go wrong with PPI.
 
wootoom said:
hey crak ill show you a picture i have to take one. im waiting for my camera to charge
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cool deal.

i think the hardest part of this planned install will be getting the 4x8 sheet of MDF home. kinda hard to shove one of those into a Civic Sedan. i had to grab a piece of plywood 2 weeks ago, so i had them cut it in half lengthwise before i left the lumber yard. that's the size i wanted it though. it was hanging out of the back of my car, the rear seats were down, and the passenger's seat was all the way foreward. kinda makes me wish i had bought a truck, but i can't beat the gas milage.

i might be a lazy bastard and just go in with my dimensions already set and have them cut it right there. that way i'm gaurenteed straight cuts. i have 2 circular saws but no table to mount them on. plus i've been known to cut kinda crooked in the past.

the quality of this next install is key for me. i'm planning on rebuilding my entire trunk floor in sections, then bolting it all together once it's placed in the trunk. at first i was going to frame it out underneath with 2x4s and mount the amps below the floor, but then i remembered that for some reason it's not a good idea to mount amps upside down. now it looks like i'll be making an amp rack and putting the amps in front of the box, behind the rear seats. this way they'll only be accessable if you lower the back seats, and my back seats don't lower without using the key to release them.

i'm trying to make this install "unstealable" and extremely clean. gotta get some carpeting to cover it all. i want it to be worthy of showing off to people i know very well (and know they won't fuck with my car).
 
wootoom said:
stereos pound so good in littlew cars hey. its crazy
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i know. it's awesome.

i've done 2 hatchbacks before and 1 car with a trunk. my 78 Impala you could barely feel the sub. it was audible. single JL 12 with 130watts.

i transferred the system into an 85 Civic Hatch and the thump doubled, but you won't get much with 130watts.

then i swapped someone the JL for a Soundstream. the soundstream kicked ass with that low of power.

heard a single Boston 12" running on the same amp i had in a Civic hatch. double the thump. amazing.

when i put dual 12s in my Blazer, i was impressed.

this will be my first trunk install in almost 9 years. i'm kind of wary about getting good thump, but i know i'll be happy.
 
I still do media installs for my friends, used to run an audio install place back in high school...latest rig I interfaced a PC into a 5 lcd setup w/ wireless keyboard and built a touchpad into the center console.... twas sick.
 
ZKaudio said:
I still do media installs for my friends, used to run an audio install place back in high school...latest rig I interfaced a PC into a 5 lcd setup w/ wireless keyboard and built a touchpad into the center console.... twas sick.
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Sweet.
 
if i had a van or an SUV i'd consider doing LCD screens and DVD so my kids would be entertained on long trips.

but we don't go on any long trips. and i like to listen to my music in the car, which would interfere with them watching DVDs, even if they did have headphones on.

plus they'd still fight. no stopping that.
 
dunk said:
I cant agree more. I dropped like 3 grand into my GTI already.

*R32 Front Bumper*Neuspeed 28mm Rear Sway*APR Chip*Cold Air Intake*Forge DV*Diesel Geel SS*Greddy Turbo Timer*Hella Smoked Tails*Smoked Side Markers*Smoked Bumper Markers*Rear Black VW Badge*Black Kamei Sport Grill*Porsche Rear Turbo Badge*

http://www.pifiu.com/upload/uploads/102004/Angled2.jpg
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hers a pic of my setup. works perfect for me. and plenty of bass

http://pic12.picturetrail.com/VOL431/782035/5012193/64351134.jpg
 
in my grand cherokee

2- 12" xtant x series sub
1- xtant 600 watt class D amp
6 cubic foot evnted box

2 grand for just that!

hardest hitting system i ever heard. worth every penny.
 
crak600 said:
cool deal.


the quality of this next install is key for me. i'm planning on rebuilding my entire trunk floor in sections, then bolting it all together once it's placed in the trunk. at first i was going to frame it out underneath with 2x4s and mount the amps below the floor, but then i remembered that for some reason it's not a good idea to mount amps upside down. now it looks like i'll be making an amp rack and putting the amps in front of the box, behind the rear seats. this way they'll only be accessable if you lower the back seats, and my back seats don't lower without using the key to release them.

i'm trying to make this install "unstealable" and extremely clean. gotta get some carpeting to cover it all. i want it to be worthy of showing off to people i know very well (and know they won't fuck with my car).
Click to expand...


WOW.......sounds like a really fun project! :) You should do progression pics along the way and some completion pics and post them.
 
Crac, dunk, RADAR and any of you other audiophiles, I have a few questions about speakers please.


The situation: I'm planning to add component speakers to my pimping (!!) 2003 Elanta. I have 6 3/4 '" door speakers in front and 6X9" in the rear deck. I'm looking at Polk db, Alpine Type-R, and Infinity Kappa. The prices are 219, 249, and 299 respectively.

1) Which brand would you recommend and why?

2) Would adding a second set of tweeters and woofers in the back add noticably to the imaging or should I just buy a nice pair of 6X9s for the rear deck?


Thanks :)
 
crak600 said:
i know. it's awesome.

i've done 2 hatchbacks before and 1 car with a trunk. my 78 Impala you could barely feel the sub. it was audible. single JL 12 with 130watts.

i transferred the system into an 85 Civic Hatch and the thump doubled, but you won't get much with 130watts.

then i swapped someone the JL for a Soundstream. the soundstream kicked ass with that low of power.

heard a single Boston 12" running on the same amp i had in a Civic hatch. double the thump. amazing.

when i put dual 12s in my Blazer, i was impressed.

this will be my first trunk install in almost 9 years. i'm kind of wary about getting good thump, but i know i'll be happy.
Click to expand...

As long as you properly sound deaden the trunk getting good bass response shouldnt be a problem at all, granted it wont be as loud as the hatch backs you have done...just have to add more power :)
 
RottenWillow said:
Crac, dunk, RADAR and any of you other audiophiles, I have a few questions about speakers please.


The situation: I'm planning to add component speakers to my pimping (!!) 2003 Elanta. I have 6 3/4 '" door speakers in front and 6X9" in the rear deck. I'm looking at Polk db, Alpine Type-R, and Infinity Kappa. The prices are 219, 249, and 299 respectively.

1) Which brand would you recommend and why?

2) Would adding a second set of tweeters and woofers in the back add noticably to the imaging or should I just buy a nice pair of 6X9s for the rear deck? Thanks :)
Click to expand...


You cant really go with what anyone else recommends for component systems, best bet is to go to your local stereo shop and listen for yourself. What sounds perfect to me might not sound the same to you. They are all 3 great brands and will sound great. If you can afford it, adding another component set in the back will never hurt, but a good pair of 6 x 9's will also sound good. Just depends on your budget. Good Luck !
 
RottenWillow said:
Crac, dunk, RADAR and any of you other audiophiles, I have a few questions about speakers please.


The situation: I'm planning to add component speakers to my pimping (!!) 2003 Elanta. I have 6 3/4 '" door speakers in front and 6X9" in the rear deck. I'm looking at Polk db, Alpine Type-R, and Infinity Kappa. The prices are 219, 249, and 299 respectively.

1) Which brand would you recommend and why?

2) Would adding a second set of tweeters and woofers in the back add noticably to the imaging or should I just buy a nice pair of 6X9s for the rear deck?


Thanks :)
Click to expand...


ditto to what Jaywill said about hearing them yourself and going from there.

Boston Acoustics has a speaker set with the tweeter embedded in the center of the woofer cone. it'd cut down on the install process. you can pick them up on ebay (new) for $299. i opted not to, as if i went with BA, it'd be pro series only, and they're real pricey.

rear speakers are a different beast. you can get away with no rear speakers if you don't feel like installing them. if no one ever rides in the back of the car, then don't bother. turn the fader towards the front so you don't even notice the stock rear speakers are on. ideally, you do not want to know that they're even there. rear speakers will pull the sound back and away from you, and you don't want that. i believe you want to attenuate the rear speakers 6-9 db lower than the front. every 3db is a doubling of sound volume. if you upgrade the rears, keep that in mind.


i'll have pics of the install process. before i do anything, i have to build the trunk floor, sub box, and amp rack. once they're done, i'll start off probably on a Friday afternoon with running wiring, then spend Saturday/Sunday installing the head unit and front speakers. sucks that it's getting cold out. i hate doing this stuff in cold weather.

told my buddy this morning that i HAVE to bring the car down to his place to tune the system. i will NOT do it by my house. just don't trust people around here that much. i'll make sure to keep the volume down when coming into the neighborhood so they don't even know i've got a system.
 
Yay... I get to show mine off. All work done by me.

Some of you may remember my previous carputers. This is my third and version 2.0 in the Jetta.

DSC00014.jpg


Quick List:

PC Specs:
Gateway E-1400
600Mhz PIII / 100
512MB
40GB 3.5" HDD

Handles all digital media formats without any problems. I typically have Network Stumbler and iGuidance (Navigation) running in the background while playing MP3s or playing DivX or DVD.

Other Hardware:
Opus PSU
7" Xenarc Touch Screen
In-Dash Slot-Load Slimline DVD/CDR Drive
Globe Box 4 Port USB 2.0 Power Hub
DVD Drive (in trunk)
Orinoco Gold WiFi card with external 7.5dB Omni Antenna
Gryration RF mini keyboard + mouse.
BU-303 GPS Receiver

Audio:
2 Kenwood Excelon 6.5" Woofers
2 Kenwood Excelon 1" Tweeters
2 MB Quart 3/4" Discus Tweeters
2 Blaupunkt 6.5" Mid-Range Woofers
1 Sherwood a405 50x4 Ampilifer

DSC00029.jpg


DSC00026.jpg


DSC00022.jpg


menu_night00.jpg


video_night00.jpg


navi_night01.jpg


MP3, DivX, DVD, TV, Navigation, and more. Controlled by touchscreen. Around $1k
 
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WOW.

i could not put an LCD screen in my console. i'd probably get in trouble for jerking it to porn while driving.

wouldn't mind having some type of computer in the car, but simply so i could load all my CDs onto the hard drive. i've got almost 10gb of music on the computer and around 200 more CDs. sucks when i have stacks and stacks of discs in the car. i'd go with an mp3 reciever but it's just not in the budget right now, nor was an mp3 changer.
 
bulldog3434 said:
i have a totally bumpin factory stereo in my chevy s10 ext. cab with premium sound
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yeah, a lot of manufacturers have gotten better about factory stereos in recent years. i forget which car it is, but there is an option for a Boston Acoustics stereo from the factory. not sure if the option included amps or was just head unit powered, but either way, i'd probably bump up the power and add subs.

the hardest thing about car stereo is speaker placement. factory speaker locations can be 100% on or off. sure, you can always make your own mounts for speakers, but it's 10X easier when it's already done for you. my Blazer only allowed for 4x6s in the dash. shittiest location and size of speaker i could've imagined. i was going to build some "custom" (ie - rednecked) door pods for it but decided it just wasn't worth the work.

ok, all this stereo talk has me giddy wanting to install mine. i have a 35-40 minute commute to and from school, perfect time to bump the stereo, relax, and enjoy. someone come help me organize and set up my house so i can get on with the install already.
 
crak600 said:
DelTree, how much did the computer setup cost? i'd consider doing something like that if it was cheap enough.
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I really depends on the features you want. The computer I built from "extra" parts. I kinda had it laying around. The screen is about $400. It's VGA touch screen and plugs right into a video card and USB port. Check out the mp3car.com threads for more info and setups.
 
hmmm, spare parts...

all i've got as spare parts are some PC133 and 100 ram, an 8gb hard drive, video card, and might have a spare sound card. that still leaves mobo/processor, and i'd want more than an 8gb drive. i've got a 20g and 100g in the current computer, but i'd be hesitant to remove either for a car install. too much stuff on both to go smaller.
 
crak600 said:
hmmm, spare parts...

all i've got as spare parts are some PC133 and 100 ram, an 8gb hard drive, video card, and might have a spare sound card. that still leaves mobo/processor, and i'd want more than an 8gb drive. i've got a 20g and 100g in the current computer, but i'd be hesitant to remove either for a car install. too much stuff on both to go smaller.
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Get an older 350 Mhz + PC. You can probably find one being given away somewhere. That will play MP3s, CDs, DVDs, and even Mpeg4 (DivX). For a little more you can add a GPS antenna. I was running all that with my first "CarPuter" - it was a 266Mhz PIII running windows 95.
 
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