J
jenscats5
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Enough to tell me if an estimate I got is reasonable??
SoKlueles said:My dad used to pour it. I think he charged by the foot but im not sure.
tynycgirl said:SOKLU!!!! You're so wise.
SoKlueles said:ty
i know he would make alot of money doing that and he did a good job, hey jen u want me to get him to do ur concrete for u?
SoKlueles said:he would lay the plan out and pour it, i dont know if he ever removed any. He would put the 2x4s down and set it up one day, then go in the next morning and pour it
undefinedwhat is the estimate for,and how much was it?estimate for what and how much was it?jenscats5 said:Enough to tell me if an estimate I got is reasonable??
buffer1 said:undefined
undefinedwhat is the estimate for,and how much was it?estimate for what and how much was it?
sorerotators said:ouch!... that sounds high. don't know your location but that sounds pretty high for that kinda work in Michigan anyways.
get a few more estimates.
wutangnomo said:You're leaving out an important piece of information (though I may have missed it). What size area are you having done?
jenscats5 said:It's a rectangular front porch -- 13' x 5'8"
Not sure how many inches thick they will pour it tho....
HumorMe said:WTF....that is kind of small for such a high price.
jenscats5 said:Well they have to jackhammer the thing apart -- remember it's sort of connected to the house & surrounded by the foundation walls.....then build a support & form, install rebar, pour concrete, then remove all the forms & supports.... that seems like a lot of work to me...
Too much??
HumorMe said:I had 60 yards of concrete installed as my driveway. They leveled the terrain, formed it and poured it for about $7000. Leveling the area was $1000. The concrete was $62 per yard. Formed and poured was $35 per yard. Actual cost was about $6850.
jenscats5 said:Yeah, but all they had to do was pour over a solid surface (ie the dirt/ground under the paved part of the driveway).
The porch is a suspended slab over my basement..... wouldn't that make a difference?? The underside of this concrete slab is the ceiling of my basement.
gonelifting said:Could you get the next estimates split between the demolition and the rest of the work? Maybe you can do that yourself (hire cheap laborers to demolish for 1 or 2 days) and take off a good $1000. It sounds complicated with the "suspended" part, so that may not be an option. If it is a viable route, then just ask what it would cost if the place is cleared or cleaned? Who knows, maybe they're charging you $2k for that.
Don't forget the dumpster rental!
Ulcasterdropout said:it's pretty hard once it dries
gonelifting said:Is it a possibility to install a wooden decklike structure? It's a porch correct?
OK I'll wait for the damn pics.
gonelifting said:Is it a possibility to install a wooden decklike structure? It's a porch correct?
OK I'll wait for the damn pics.
GoldenDelicious said:well whats wrong with the existing concrete, exactly? you said it was cracked, but from the picture i have in my head, with the right sort of bracing, you could just pour straight onto the existing slab at a much thinner thickness (ie 50-75mm) and get the same result...unless that is going to make a step that you just cant live with
you need to post some pics
and of the slab, too![]()
gonelifting said:My guess is 26, 27 tops. Maybe 43, but I highly doubt it.
or 8.
wutangnomo said:Is underneath your porch the cold cellar? Usually it is.
wutangnomo said:Ok now that I see the pics it's a lot clearer now.
Few q's:
Will they be demolishing all that brick as well, then replacing it? No, they won't. It's loose & the pointing is shot. I may remove it myself & install a temporary railing until I have a patio enclosure co enclose it.
Are you going to be replacing everything in that front porch (concrete slab, steps, and brick)? Eventually
Is there any water leakage due to those cracks? Yes
Is there any instability anywhere? (Looks to be a quite stable structure)
Why can't you just build an enclosure right now as it is? If you walk on the slab, you can feel it move underneath you. Plus the whole thing is crooked. I would think that installing windows on a crooked & unstable surface will cause the windows to be out of level & crack.
Concrete will almost always crack with time. Those cracks seem quite minimal, which you can easily seal up yourself (some concrete refiller and dab it in ... Home Depot). You can then tile over the concrete. The estimate you got seems quite high now.
GoldenDelicious said:right. gotcha. if it were me, i would:
get the plans for your house (blueprint or whatever you call it over there) and get on the phone to a structural engineer. get them to come and tell you how viable/easy/hard it is to prop up the slab from below (the people doing the job will obviously have the right props to do this...there are some cooooool hydrolic ones out there but chances are tehyll just use normal screw props) and replace the wooden beams with steel ones (some thick C channel is probably about right). of course youd have to rip all that wood off as well, exposing the concrete, which you could either paint or plaster.
then seal the cracks in the slab with some flexible waterproof compound (whatever you would call it over there) and then tile over the top...or even just leave as is, so long as the compund you use isnt really really ugly
youll probably have enough change from the 6 grand to make your porch into a sunroom, unless im missing something...and i dont think i am, really.

GoldenDelicious said:maybe. get quotes.
structural engineers are fairly specialised.
you probably should get your husband to talk to the guy (i know its sexist, but still) since the price goes up when fussy people (ie women) are involved.
good luck j, if he tries to rip you off, we can organise a beatin'![]()
GoldenDelicious said:why not?
Gambino said:didn't see this post earlier, too lazy to read all the posts
hit me with the info and i'll get a quote by tommorrow
Testosterone boy said:You need to do this.
Gaybino is in that type of business. Since he wants to get lucky in '05, a smokin' deal may be available.
I think the thing can be fixed. Cement always cracks and your cracks are not that bad.
Support the hell out of it. It would take me a solid week end to be able to support the elephants of Ringling Bros plus that slab of cement. Plus patch the crack and put some good tile over the whole thing.
jenscats5 said:It's a front porch -- attached to the house. The concrete pad needs to be jackhammered up, then a form be laid down & support posts put in. Then rebar needs to be installed, then concrete poured. Once the 'crete sets up for about 7 days -- the support posts will be removed.
Gambino said:how many sq feet is the porch?
Gambino said:as well jen you should buy a construction calculator, you can figure yards and rafters
Testosterone boy said:If I had a construction guy willing to listen to me, I would answer all of his questions.
But thats just me.
jen, youre screaming to get ripped off. your above paragraph, in builders speak, translates to "take my money, please, PLEASE take my money"jenscats5 said:The 2 rafters/beams that support the whole thing also have termite damage, which is not good. Plus the wood underneath the thing is all F'd up and it's aobut to take out my water line.
I don't think we can avoid it being replaced.
Gambino said:i printed the stats listed on post 7, plus the size.
this will depend on thickness so i will go with standard.
labor cost will be subjective on who you hire.
you seem pretty hands on maybe you could rent a jackhammer
and do it yourself?
I will try to remember to do this tommorow...![]()
GoldenDelicious said:jen, youre screaming to get ripped off. your above paragraph, in builders speak, translates to "take my money, please, PLEASE take my money"

Creepusmaximus said:You have a big job there believe it or not. I would worry about going with the cheapest bid.
Wood holding up the porch is shot. Needs to be replaced.
Porch can leak water into basement. Makes things harder to do. Looks like the wood rotted from water to me. Half ass job will not work for years to come.
On the other hand, if you enclose the porch water will be less of a problem.
That job is fairly hard to do and it will cost some bucks to get that done. You'll be paying for mind power not materials. I can't see under $5000 BTW.
jenscats5 said:That's exactly what happened.....the cracks have been there for years & are getting worse. When I walk on where the one big crack is -- the concrete moves when you step on it...... When it rains, the rain comes into the basement, thus rotting wood already damaged by termites.
The goal is to enclose the porch with an entry door & windows, which I can't do with it in the condition it's in now. The Enclosure Guy who looked at it yesterday said it would be easy to enclose, once it's squared up & in good shape.
wutangnomo said:Like I said, your actual materials isn't very costly as your area of coverage is very small. Plywood, concrete, rebars, sealant, etc are all quite cheap. It is the labour that will kill you.
You will be needing around 2.5 cubic yards of concrete. The fact that your concrete is actually wobbling and moving around when you walk on it indicates some serious problem, which you will have to replace. Don't bother trying to salvage the existing concrete, as that will only end up costing you more then simply scraping the existing one and building a new porch. You can build an enclosing porch to cover it, but I would think that in the long-run you will eventually have to replace the concrete anyway.
I also suggest instead of using wood beams as supports, use a couple steel poles to the structure. Won't have to worry about rotting in that case.
gonelifting said:If you get a builder/contractor other than a concrete guy, you'll probably have more luck with him working in your area. It would no longer be a concrete job other than the demolition.
Do it!
Wood. wood
w
and enclose it at the smae time, it'll cxost you even less. Do it.
di
I enclosed my porch that was open on three sides and is now a part of my living room. It was wood to begin with, so it was'nt as bad, but I did it and it's well worth it. You won't be knocking out your existing front wall like I did though. (to make the room bigger)
Wood! There's nothing dictating the need for concrete anymore if it's enclosed.
Also... wood. lol
Especially since you have 10 inch thick concrete, the wood can easily be 10 or 12 inch 2X12s for great support. It's not like a 4 inch slab that you can't replace with wood. You DO have the height/thickness there.
gonelifting said:It would'nt really be a wood "decking" because you'll have plywood on top and tile on top of that. You won't even know what was under there after it's done. The only reason it;s concrete now is the fact it's outside. When enclosed, you'll have a normal room made of wood.
Not one person would make it out of concrete if starting from scratch. WHY? You'll be starting over once the original crete is demolished.
Maybe I'm not fully understanding.
Also, don't forget about the regular contractors as opposed to the concrete guys. Get more of their their estimates (like you just did).
jenscats5 said:Oh and the Enclosure company guy said it's no problem to enclose it once the damage issues are resolved.....
Hmmmmmmmmmm -- may have to talk to The Hub again -- cuz once it's demolished -- why not build new wood rafters then lay plywood or metal sheeting over said rafters then Concrete board over that & then tile with - say slate tiles?? Or terracotta tiles?? Something that could withstand some weather provided I don't enclose it right away..... I mean there is a roof over it & I have an awning that gets put up, so it's not exposed to a ton of weather.....
Hmmmmmmmmmmm
gonelifting said:AWESOME! But if you do enclose it right away, it would be built slightly different and at a cheaper cost. Some things would be omitted and not done twice etc...
jenscats5 said:Well they have to jackhammer the thing apart -- remember it's sort of connected to the house & surrounded by the foundation walls.....then build a support & form, install rebar, pour concrete, then remove all the forms & supports.... that seems like a lot of work to me...
Too much??
rsnoble-im-back said:Out here I could get that job done for less than 2k. Your only using about 1 yard so total supplies are less than $500.00. You are being bent over and fuked hard on this deal-but if you cant do it yourself that's the way it goes. any rural areas around there? Go out and ask some farmers if they know any good help that just work out of their house. Im having a 30x60' slab + all the rrebar and finish work done for $3300.00-so u tell me. Get a bf and make him do it.

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