Anyone here a mechanic?

[Becoming]

Like a real one, who gets paid for it.... (I have changed thousands of plugs in my life and have done most of the minor work on the carborated cars I have had)

My wife's freaking check engine light went on.... I was like "how long since you changed the oil", she is like "I don't know"...

I said, "what do you mean you don't know..... like 4000 miles, 5000, 6000....?"

She says, ummm maybe 6-7000? I don't know... I am like "WTF- no wonder the light came on, the oil level is probably low....(and thinking yeah- probably more like 7-8000)"

Anyway to make a long story short, did all maintenence on it, oil, plugs, plug wires, trans fluid, oil filter, air filter etc cause I don't know what she has had done and when....

The damn light is still on though- I figure you have to have one of those computer things to take it off right?

BTW it runs good still, a little rough-mostly at idle, but still good, drives fine, shifts right, BTW it ran a little rough before all this, but I don't think I can do anything about it without a computer thing either right....? (Damn electronics crap)

Thanks peeps- big karma hits to those with good answers I can use....

BTW she has a 99 mustang with about 75K miles.....

Ford quips get red....

 

[OMGWTFBBQ]

is she hot?

 

[Code]

Just keep checking the engine every time you see the light.

 

[HS Lifter]

You could buy a code reader off ebay for around 40$.

Find out what the code is, then look it up in the manuel that comes with and take it from there.

Goodluck.

PS If it has tits or wheels, its gonna give you problems.

 

[OMGWTFBBQ]

PS If it has tits or wheels, its gonna give you problems.

Lookout for chicks in wheelchairs - nothing but trouble there.

 

[Moderate_THIS]

Can I check her oil.... please?

 

[alien amp pharm]

Maybe this guy is a mechanic?
http://boards.elitefitness.com/forum/member.php?s=&action=getinfo&userid=12731


On a side note, I'm not sure I'd want advice from a mechanic that's able to post on Elite all day.

 

[Becoming]

Luckily I have just enough hits to give everyone but HS lifter red....... Thanks HS- I will give you some green when I recharge...

Yes she is hot.... but I don't think she would like me posting a pic here....

Anyone else with useful advice?

 

[Becoming]

PS- here is another question- on carb cars- you can make adjustments to the timing, combustion mix, etc - don't they do this anymore with EFI?

 

[plowboy]

sounds like a map sensor or idle control sensor or you could have a small hole in a vacume line. those little rubber lines get brittle over time

 

[digger]

Oxygen sensor is a prime candidate, especially if it's running rough. Take it in, man -- you're pumping money out the tailpipe until you do.

(Did you know something like four percent of all cars generate more than sixty percent of the automotive air pollution? First thing I'd do as king is shut down the annual inspections and use their budget to find just those guys. Mobile pollution detector goes off, BEEP; forklift comes out of nowhere and grabs the offending car right out of the lane. If you can't or won't get out, you can ride it right into the crusher -- which is conveniently located right by the side of the road.)

 

[from zero]

My buddy's got a 2001 Mustang, and his Check Engine light has been on for a long time now too ...

 

[alien amp pharm]

Your brake pads sound suspect here.

Try removing them and oil the face of the pads down real well.




(Note: I must put a disclaimer stating I'm only joking because you might actually try this, dumbass)

 

[Silent Method]

There are alot of car product shops that will run a diagnostic for free. Keep in mind that the diagnostic will just tell you what sensor picked up what kind of reading. Usually you must infer what caused the problem reading. In many cases a simple worn or fouled sensor and NOT a mechanical problem is at fault.

On some GM models you can simply close the circut between two specific prongs on the diagnostic connector (i.e. connect two prongs with a wire) and the check engine light will flash in a pattern, similar to Morse Code, telling you what caused the reading.

There are similar tricks for other cars, but I don't know about her stang.

BTW, make sure the gas cap is on tight. Most modern fuel injected cars have a sensor to make sure the fuel system remains pressurized. You'd be suprised how many people get caught with a check light for not putting their gas cap on tight.



You can make fuel mixture adjustments on various EFI systems through the computer - or simply instaling a pre-mapped chip. There are mechanical methods of fuel mixture adjustments on EFI systems, a great deal of which the computer will automatically compensate for (such as removing the screen from the MAF sensor).

 

[HumorMe]

BTW, make sure the gas cap is on tight. Most modern fuel injected cars have a sensor to make sure the fuel system remains pressurized. You'd be suprised how many people get caught with a check light for not putting their gas cap on tight.

I was just going to mention that but you beat me to it.

 

[MissJanet79]

This is a problem w/ most Ford owners...I heard it all before... & even Ford techs can't figure out why - or don't care to find out.
Get the codes read. There's a possibility of over 200 things that could be wrong.

Autozone will read the codes for free. Ford charges $100-$120+

To decode check engine lights, you really need a quality repair manual like those provided at ALLDATA. They include troubleshooting procedures, Recall Information and Technical Service Bulletins. http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

I got the following info from another site:
Okay, here's a logical nine-step procedure for troubleshooting Check Engine lights:

Pull those codes. As an experienced diagnostician once said to me, "Trouble codes are just the index of a very bad book." Never jump to conclusions on the basis of them, but they're still a valuable preliminary that'll point you in more or less the right direction.
Erase the codes. Normally, this is done by yanking the ECM fuse for 10 seconds or so.
Start 'er up. Note any unhealthy sounds, rough idle, etc.
Go for a test drive. Zero in on any driveability problems.
Pop the hood and look for any obvious problems, such as disconnected vacuum lines, broken or grounded wires, a leaking coolant temperature sensor, etc.
Three things are important at this juncture: basics, basics, basics. You're not going to get a good MAP signal in an engine that can only muster 12 in. Hg. of vacuum, a missing thermostat will keep any system out of closed loop, and all the electronics in the world can't make up for a burned valve, a jumped timing belt, a deposit-bridged plug, etc. Whether you check all this with a scope/analyzer, or with your eyes and compression and vacuum gauges, do it now to establish a baseline. And, as I said, all those vacuum line, wires, and connections have to be in good shape.
Once you're satisfied that the engine's pumping ability is okay, you can start your investigation of the computerized engine controls. There are numerous ways to go here from scan tools and sensor simulators to digital storage oscilloscopes and computer-aided diagnostic analyzers, and I'm not going to get into the question of what works best. But I'll say that you can test just about anything you understand with a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter).
If you come to an impasse where you have to install an ECM or other expensive component before you can proceed, make sure what you've done so far is right.
Make the repairs, clear any codes that may have reset in the process, then take a test drive to verify that the light is indeed out and any driveability/performance complaints have been rectified.

 

[Silent Method]

Oxygen sensor is a prime candidate, especially if it's running rough.

Ditto. It's probably the prime candidate in 90% of check engine light-ups.

The problem then becomes, is the sensor fouled up, or are any of the hundreds of things that could be causing the incorrect burn be happening?

 

[Silent Method]

This is a problem w/ most Ford owners...I heard it all before... & even Ford techs can't figure out why - or don't care to find out.

First, I'm a GM guy. I usually rib all the "Frod" owners.


However, the "trouble code problem" is a problem for most owners of older cars with higher miles. Ford, Chevy, whatever, these things are very common. (Yes, the newer cars are getting better, and yes, some cars really do "break" more often than others.)

As far as having trouble finding out why, what you posted shined a light on it. The diagnostic system is just a network of sensors. The code interpretations are generic

 

[Becoming]

Thanks for all the help from everyone - I came across the fact that Autozone should usually read them for free... I will try to spin by there today.....

Karma to everyone who helped out.... I will hit all of you with green- even if the comments were minimally helpful....

Special Thanks to Silent- awesome info bro- I will make sure to hit you up a few times with green when I can.....

Alien- I am going to kick your ass.... (j/k )

I will post up what code/codes I get and resolution (if any happens) for anyone who is curious.....

 

[OMGWTFBBQ]

WTF - I didn't get any red.

 

[Becoming]

WTF - I didn't get any red.

I have to recharge- there is still hope for you yet....

 

[Code]

Shit, no green or red here either.

 

[Lumberg]

I was a certified auto mechanic for 3 years before going back to school.

Basically MissJanet knows her shit.

One thing though...about your first post: the oil level has litte or nothing to do with the check engine light. There is a separate oil light that comes on when oil pressure drops below a certain point. Check engine light basically means the computer is getting a reading from one or more sensors that it does not like.

Don't be a parts changer.

 

[Becoming]

WTF is a parts changer....

 

[Lumberg]

a parts changes is someone who instead of diagnosing the problem normally jusst starts replacing parts.

for example you think it's the o2 sensor so you replace it. car drives fine for a day. uh oh check engine light is on again. someone says it's the EGR valve. so you buy an EGR valve and swap that in....car runs fine for two days. then the light comes on again etc. etc.

too many people have this approach to car repair. don't be that guy.

 

[Becoming]

not me... thanks though.... I will post up the codes when I get them today before I do anything....

You know up till know I was thinking all this electronic crap was just a big pain in the ass- but now I am seeing how it might actually make things easier to fix (and more accurate)

 

[Lumberg]

juat be careful. it takes more than a computer code to fix a car. for exampel just because you get a MAP sensor code doesn't mean replace the MAP sensor.