Any of you knuckleheads ever replaced a clutch?

[kx250rider]

I've done a few of them, but it's hard to tell all the tricks in writing. If you don't have the stick tool to align it when you put it on, it will make it difficult or even cause damage to the new clutch. But usually those come free with clutch sets at most auto parts stores, or you can buy one for $6 for your particular car at most parts stores. (Clutch assembly alignment tool). When you unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, look at the flat springs taht point to the middle of the hole, and see if they're beginning to have a worn groove from the throwout bearing rubbing on them. If not, you can just replace the clutch disk and not the whole assembly. I do that whenever I have a transmission dismouted from an engine, even if the clutch disk is only barely used. It's a lot of work to do the job from scratch, but it's easy as pie when the transmission is already off. While it's apart, it's smart to change the pilot bearing and also the engine rear main seal. If the rear main seal leaks, it can foul the new clutch and you'll have to do it all over again. And if the throwout bearing is worn (if you remember hearing or feeling growling or rumbling when you pushed the clutch pedal), replace that now too. When you mate the transmission back onto the engine, be sure not to shove the clutch out of alignment accidentally as you poke the transmission shaft through the clutch and into the pilot bearing. This is probably all a bunch of crap without pictures, but hopefully some of it might help.

Charles

 

[RottenWillow]

I've done a few of them, but it's hard to tell all the tricks in writing. If you don't have the stick tool to align it when you put it on, it will make it difficult or even cause damage to the new clutch. But usually those come free with clutch sets at most auto parts stores, or you can buy one for $6 for your particular car at most parts stores. (Clutch assembly alignment tool). When you unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, look at the flat springs taht point to the middle of the hole, and see if they're beginning to have a worn groove from the throwout bearing rubbing on them. If not, you can just replace the clutch disk and not the whole assembly. I do that whenever I have a transmission dismouted from an engine, even if the clutch disk is only barely used. It's a lot of work to do the job from scratch, but it's easy as pie when the transmission is already off. While it's apart, it's smart to change the pilot bearing and also the engine rear main seal. If the rear main seal leaks, it can foul the new clutch and you'll have to do it all over again. And if the throwout bearing is worn (if you remember hearing or feeling growling or rumbling when you pushed the clutch pedal), replace that now too. When you mate the transmission back onto the engine, be sure not to shove the clutch out of alignment accidentally as you poke the transmission shaft through the clutch and into the pilot bearing. This is probably all a bunch of crap without pictures, but hopefully some of it might help.

Charles

Wow thanks for the detail Charles, but I drove this car to work the last few days. Just went ahead and popped the new transmission back in there Wednesday night b/c the parts stores were going to be closed Thursday and I really needed the car for Friday commute.