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Ask me anything about car detailing ...
- Thread starter PICK3
- Start date
What can I put on the leather seats to keep them from wrinkling?
and How can I keep my windshield clean so the wipers work better?
and How can I keep my windshield clean so the wipers work better?
patsfan1379
New member
the paint on my lower door and rocker below the front wheels isnt as smooth anymore. How do i get that shit off?
N
nutsnack
Guest
what's something good to put on my dash to make it shiney.. its really dusty now but i hate the slimey shit.. i want it shiney and dry not armor-all wet!!
PICK3
New member
SC4EVA said:
Truly, the woolite/water mixture (6:1) does wonders for leather. It's very safe and was once recommended in Cadillacs owner's manuals.
Lexol is a old favorite for conditioning and Zaino makes something called Z9 & Z10 that works well.
Detailing prices is usually broken down e.g, exterior $129-169, interior $50-$100, engine $50-$75, etc ...
Redshoteye
New member
PICK3 said:I know everything about this
I have a 03 Expedition.... looking to do a number of things, paint the gold trim black for monotone look, chrome plate the front bumper and mirrors, a nice wooden dash kit for the interior, and hopefully xenon headlights.... is online the best place to look for these things (if so, where?) or should I talk with people at a Ford dealership. I'm not sure how to attack this job initially and I have no idea where to find chrome plating.
Fast Twitch Fiber
New member
How can I patch a crack in my dashboard? Is there some type of filler to seal the crack?
patsfan1379
New member
wow you really do know everything.
patsfan1379
New member
PICK3 said:
look in the back of any car magazine, there are TONS of plating and anodizing companies out there.
A good bro told me about this stuff. Have'nt used it yet, but it's in the mail. Looks promising. Something like Armorall.
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=protectant
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=protectant
PICK3 said:
Sorry did'nt see that post. Is that stuff slippery? Do you think it would protect a composite deck? They're know to fade slightly, I'm wondering if it would help since it lasts longer and does a good job, I'd try it if it's not slippery.
vansmack2000
New member
Best way to clean an engine?
Dunk
New member
PICK3 said:
btw. you ever use a california duster for your interior dash?
every morning on my way to work. roll down the windows.
wipe everything down. removes all the dust nicely.
they sell that 303 shit in autoparts stores? or do ya gotta order it online?
also. heres usually my steps involved in detailing my car. tell me what you think
- wash (water & meguiar's Gel Soap)
- clean Rims (Eagle One)
- dry car
- claybar (mothers)
- cleaner wax (meguiars)
- polish (meguiars)
- wax (mothers)
- BLING!
PICK3
New member
dunk said:
I usually use a microfiber towel dampened a little with the woolite/water (1:6) for a quick interior wipe down.
I purchase 303 from a local boating supply store, but you can get it online.
Your detailing routine looks pretty good. I'm not a big fan of claying ... I clayed my car when I first got it to remove "rail dust". Claying is pretty expensive and if you drop the claybar you have to trash it. Clay does work well when removing bug guts though.
I'm not sure why you use cleaner wax before polishing. Cleaner wax is paint cleaner (chemical polish) and wax. Polishing after that step just remove the wax part.
Be careful using Eagle1 A2Z wheel cleaner. I found out the hard way that it streaks driveways
PICK3
New member
vansmack2000 said:
Leave it to a pro. Nowdays there's so many onboard computers and electronic gadgets it could cost you if you don't know what you're doing. Since I purchased my car new, I never let the engine get dirty. Just touch it up with a degreaser (Castrol from Walmart) and a spray water bottle with assorted sized brushes.
In the old days I use to cover the carb and distributor and brush GUNK over everthing and high pressure wash ... it's not that easy anymore.
PICK3
New member
mikeyboy604 said:
A CA drying blade disperses alot of water quickly which is essential if you're washing in direct sun in the summer (which I try never to do), but you have to be careful. The best way to use it is to swipe the blade with a rag before each pass to make sure you're not dragging any debris. I bought one and gave it away. I use Waffle Weave microfiber drying towels one drys my little car easily with out wringing it out. 2 would dry the largest SUV.
The Walmart microfibers are my everyday work towels for removing polishes and waxes. I have a few premium microfiber towels I've purchased from "boutique" detailing shops, but only use them on high end jobs.
As far as waterspots ... don't let water dry on your vehicle. If you car is well waxed a QD (quick detail) will restore a fresh waxed look to your car assuming it's not too dirty. Eagle 1 makes a decent QD than you can purchase most anywhere for $5.99
Damn good info. Great thread here. Give this man some K, I sure did. Thanks bro.
PICK3
New member
BTW, if you get serious about detailing the Porter Cable 7424 Radom Orbital Polisher is by far the single best tool you can purchase.
Prep work is the key to detailing and polishing by hand can't compete with machine polishing. Since the PC7424 is radom orbital it doesn't generate enough heat to "burn" paint ... so even a newbie can get fantastic results with a very short learning curve. You can purchase this tool with pads for <$200.
Prep work is the key to detailing and polishing by hand can't compete with machine polishing. Since the PC7424 is radom orbital it doesn't generate enough heat to "burn" paint ... so even a newbie can get fantastic results with a very short learning curve. You can purchase this tool with pads for <$200.
P
Phaded
Guest
you happen to live in florida? i need a car detailer.. i need to get rid of these fucking swirl marks..
P
Phaded
Guest
you ever heard of zaino wax what do you think about it?
PICK3
New member
Phaded said:
In general sealants provide superior protection to waxes and Zaino is one of the best (if not the best) sealant out there. It's a little pricey and you have to mix an accelerator to the sealant to get it to cure, but it provides an extremely durable layer of very high gloss protection.
Many enthusiasts apply a sealant for protection like Zaino, Klasse, Poorboy's EX, etc ... then top with a carnauba wax for aesthesis.
Dunk
New member
PICK3 said:
whats rail dust? dude for some reason. before and after claying is like night and day. its like not one contaminant is left behind. it does suck though as being pricey but worth the money in my opinion. yeh dont drop it either or you will scratch the shit out of your car
PICK3 said:
So should i just then skip the polishing and do it as below? anything you would add? or do differently?
- wash (water & meguiar's Gel Soap)
- clean rims (Eagle One)
- dry car
- claybar (mothers)
- cleaner wax (meguiars)
- SKIP polishing (meguiars) ****Leave out
- wax (mothers)
- wax again for 2nd coat
oh and also. shampooing seats. whats good?? my seats could use a little revival and i have some stains on there as well that ide like to remove.
PICK3
New member
dunk said:
Many vehicles pickup rail dust in shipping. A friend had a white Dodge truck that looked like it had rust pits on it although it was brand new. I removed it with clay.
I know what you mean about the baby butt smooth feeling you get after claying, but after I polish with my Porter Cable and use an intermediate glaze the surface is well prepped for waxing/sealing.
IMO, the whole secret to detailing is polishing so I certainly wouldn't skip that step. A properly polished vehicle would look good with any LSP (last step product) even a jar of $4.99 Turtle Wax.
A full time professional would tackle the interior with an extractor, but I'm not that well equipped as a part-timer/hobbyist. I usually tackle the interior with the woolite/water mixture and a sponge. For spot removal I use FOLEX which can be purchased at Target.
P
Phaded
Guest
you wanna explain exactly what polishing is? i got a high powered buffer like the porter cable but it isn't as pricey as the porter cable.. bought it on ebay for like 80.. what would i use coupled with that to polish..
PICK3
New member
Phaded said:
Rotary buffers take some skill ... you can create serious paint damage if you don't know what you're doing. The Porter Cable (PC) is a radom orbital. It never applies the pad in the same place long enough to generate enough heat to do damage. You could put the PC on the highest speed and set in on your hood and it wouldn't "burn" your paint. BTW, I purchased my PC at Lowe's for $109 without pads.
Polishing is the primary step in preparing your paint (clearcoat) for waxing/ sealing. When you see a dark finish, e.g. black and it looks like a mirror with no swirls it's been seriously polished
It's possible to do it by hand (Meg's and Mother's sell 3 step OTC systems with polishes) but to remove swirls it takes "world class" rubbing to get professional results. Professional polishes come in different "strengths" or abrassiveness levels depending on your vehicle's needs.
Personally I use Meguiars professionally series polishes (tan bottles NOT the purple stuff you find at Walmart), e.g. #83, #82, #80, if I work in the shade. Poorboy's polishes, SSR series can be used in direct sun like the rest of their products.
PICK3
New member
tiger88 said:
1) Not sure if I understand the question. You can use a synthetic wax everytime you wax. Aren't all synthetic waxes synthetic blends? Give me an example of a product you're calling a blend. The coldest I apply products is to 40F.
2) Don't do engine detailing any longer (see post above) I thought nikasil linings were in the cylinder walls.
3) I detail pin strips by hand with a foam pad and a polish, e.g. Poorboy's Pro Polish or Klasse All-In-One.
PICK3 said:
1. #1 for when its get hot as fuck out and sun...killz ... here in phx alot of peeps use synthinic everyother time
2. was a trick question
you sir are correct 3. good answer.. klasse has some nice shit
i detailed proffesionally bit back and made some bankk.... here look my thread in the sucess and wealth board... u may find it interesting
P
Phaded
Guest
why would you smoke crack in your car.. gotta be more careful next time.. if you smoke in your house that will never happen..
P
Phaded
Guest
it was a joke
PICK3
New member
tiger88 said:1. #1 for when its get hot as fuck out and sun...killz ... here in phx alot of peeps use synthinic everyother time
2. was a trick question
3. good answer.. klasse has some nice shit
i detailed proffesionally bit back and made some bankk.... here look my thread in the sucess and wealth board... u may find it interesting
lol! you got me
Yeah if I lived in PHX I'd use sealants all year long for UV protection. Wax would be very short lived in that climate.
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