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Anyone know what could be wrong with my car?

Agathe

Banned
Well the service engine light is on but I can;t afford to take it into service at this moment. It's foreign and even though I have extended warranty on it(factory just expired) I still have to pay like 200 for a visit.

Anyway, when the engine is cold and I try to start driving it makes a popping sound in the engine area and won't shift gears. The car rpm is going up high but the speed is same and it wont change gears. It seems like instead of shifting gears it makes that popping sound. Either way, after about 5 minutes it drives like a beast again. but this has happened past couple of times now. I'm worried. Also I'm really pissed about gas prices but that's neither here nor there, takes me fuckin 60 bucks to fill it up.
 
Agathe said:
Well the service engine light is on but I can;t afford to take it into service at this moment. It's foreign and even though I have extended warranty on it(factory just expired) I still have to pay like 200 for a visit.

Dealer diagonistic fees are usually like $70. Go to a local mechanic who might igive you a free diagostic or quick "check under the hood" for free. You haven't secured your "favorite local mechanic to go to" yet???

Agathe said:
Anyway, when the engine is cold and I try to start driving it makes a popping sound in the engine area and won't shift gears. The car rpm is going up high but the speed is same and it wont change gears. It seems like instead of shifting gears it makes that popping sound.

Is it automatic? Check your transmission fluid levels or get it changed. Sounds like it's havin' problems shiftin' gears. But check the ECM code on that check engine light, since you say it's related to this problem.
 
sounds like the o2 sensors its very common when car is cold and in closed loop also tps or mas air flow sensor hummmm or air sensor wow your pretty messed u in canada
 
I was told that i may have some sensors out of mine, the check engine light comes on on occasion and when mine idles, it jerks and stuff.....sometimes i think mine just needs to be traded in and a car bought
 
Agathe said:
Well the service engine light is on but I can;t afford to take it into service at this moment. It's foreign and even though I have extended warranty on it(factory just expired) I still have to pay like 200 for a visit.

Anyway, when the engine is cold and I try to start driving it makes a popping sound in the engine area and won't shift gears. The car rpm is going up high but the speed is same and it wont change gears. It seems like instead of shifting gears it makes that popping sound. Either way, after about 5 minutes it drives like a beast again. but this has happened past couple of times now. I'm worried. Also I'm really pissed about gas prices but that's neither here nor there, takes me fuckin 60 bucks to fill it up.
best thing to do is take in for a service
 
Is it the Service engine light or the check engine light? Each one has a different meaning. Hondas have a service engine and a check engine light. The Service Engine light is a dummy light to remind you of oil changes and tune ups and what not.

The trans not shifting could be one of a few things. Either the trans is going bad, the oil level is low, or if the shifting is controlled by manifold vaccum pressure, the line going to the trans could be cracked or clogged.

What's the year/make/model of the car?

Also, the popping sound...does the engine behavior follow with the popping sound? Does it only happen at higher rpms? Could be pinging. Sometimes a higher grade fuel can clear up pinging, other times the cause is elusive (we couldn't find the cause for it on my 85 Civic, we gave up after a while).
 
Anyone know what could be wrong with my car?

Yep ... it's a piece of shit. You should have bought a Toyota/Lexus or Honda/Acura.
 
CFZB said:
do you have a hydraulic clutch or a cable?

I'm assuming automatic here because you can almost always make a manual shift unless the clutch is blown, in which case you just clutchless shift to get it to the shop. Been there done that.
 
allabs said:
sounds like the o2 sensors its very common when car is cold and in closed loop also tps or mas air flow sensor hummmm or air sensor wow your pretty messed u in canada


hey I think you got it right on the money, there's one guy that I go to and he checked my stuff for free but couldn't diagnose the actual problem but he said it mighthave something to do with air flow sensor.
 
By the way, it's the check engine light. It means there's something wrong. I also have to change oil within few days here.

The car is a land rover 01. And yes I know I should have bought a toyota or lexus but fuck, can't go back now. I got a good deal on it and it was fun driving it for 35k miles and having not worry about the warranty.

I just got paid the other day so I might scrap up something. It was a bad month, I got hit with all kinds of bills for some reason.
 
Just a guess because what you're describing could be a number of different things, but if I had to I'd say - engine temperature sensor. This feeds the computer your engine's operating temperature and would explain the popping when cold (lean condition). This could also effect the trans shifting which is also influenced by the computer.
But you're not going to fix it here or with any other armchair mechanics. You really have no choice but to bring is somewhere to be checked.
 
Agathe said:
Well the service engine light is on but I can;t afford to take it into service at this moment. It's foreign and even though I have extended warranty on it(factory just expired) I still have to pay like 200 for a visit.

Anyway, when the engine is cold and I try to start driving it makes a popping sound in the engine area and won't shift gears. The car rpm is going up high but the speed is same and it wont change gears. It seems like instead of shifting gears it makes that popping sound. Either way, after about 5 minutes it drives like a beast again. but this has happened past couple of times now. I'm worried. Also I'm really pissed about gas prices but that's neither here nor there, takes me fuckin 60 bucks to fill it up.

Sounds like you either don't have enough fluid or to much fluid in your TRANSMISSION.....When was the last time you checked your fluids? If your fluid is low it will make that popping sound and after the fluid is heated up from the car being on, the fluid expands and lubricates the gears.
 
thanks everyone, I'll hit everyone with my green mega blast once I get back.

Tommorow I'm gonna go change the oil so they will add all the fluids as necessary.

Thanks again.
 
year, make, model, mileage?

If you don't want to deal with the diagnostic, try disconnecting the battery for ten minutes and reattach it. Fill the tank and make sure the gas cap is on prperly and tight...It may be nothing, but if you have high miles, and the issue is constant, it sound like o2 sensors. Expect about $150-$500 depending on the car.


Bluesman
 
land rover 01 discovery 63k miles.

i heard it is the o2 sensor too from auto mechanic. He checked it with his little computer thing but he needs further tests to make sure. Futher tests cost money so I said no.

I gotta pay 200 and my warranty will pay for the rest but I don't think I can afford it right now so I will drive around for another week or so. Hopefully it doesnt blow up.
 
Agathe said:
land rover 01 discovery 63k miles.

i heard it is the o2 sensor too from auto mechanic. He checked it with his little computer thing but he needs further tests to make sure. Futher tests cost money so I said no.

I gotta pay 200 and my warranty will pay for the rest but I don't think I can afford it right now so I will drive around for another week or so. Hopefully it doesnt blow up.

If he checked it with the "little computer thing" and it said it's a bad O2 sensor, there's really not much more to check. Those computers scan the car's computer (here on out known as OBD2 system) to see what trouble codes it's flashing. The OBD2 system manages all of your fuel and spark, analyzes your exhaust to figure out if you're running rich/lean, it's a good thing.

When there's a problem, the OBD2 system finds it and stores that problem in the computer. Then the check engine light comes on. Once the check engine light comes on, you're supposed to go get the car computer scanned, which your mechanic obviously did. The mechanic read the trouble code (bad O2 sensor) and if that's the only code the computer gave him, then that's the problem. There should be no further diagnosing needed if there were no other codes. However, you need to know whether it was the 1st or 2nd O2 sensor. There should be 2 and 2 only, one between the engine and the catalytic converter, and one after the catalytic converter. Unless you know which one is blown, you'll be replacing 2.

Honestly, yes, a die hard technician is going to tell you that further testing is needed because they want to replace the O2 sensor, run the car for a while, and then make sure nothing else is wrong. There also is a possibility that after the O2 sensor is replaced, something else could be going bad that caused the O2 sensor to spit out a code then you'll get another code...etc. It's not a high probability, IMO.

Of course, you're also dealing with Land Rover and I've heard nothing good about their mechanics. Friends of ours had one and they were having major issues. First land rover told them they had a bad cylinder. Then land rover told them they had 2 bad cylinders. Then land rover told them they needed a whole new engine. In the meantime, they were asking me if I could do an engine swap for them (to which I said it better be worth it and you better have a garage as well as be renting me an engine hoist and a stand). Finally they took it to another mechanic who found the problem....2 stuck valves. 2 stuck valves |= engine replacement. There was no damage to the pistons (I think the valves were stuck closed). A couple hundred, not thousand, dollars, they were problem free.

If the mechanic says it's a bad O2 sensor and that's what the computer said, he really can't be blowing smoke up your ass on that one. It's an easy fix.

Whoever said reset the computer (I don't feel like checking) that's not really a great solution. It's not going to do anything when you've already got a blown sensor unless the OBD2 system is bad anyway, in which case you need to replace the OBD2 system. All that will happen is the O2 sensor will tell the OBD2 system again that there's a bad O2 sensor and you are back at square one.

Also, and this is very important if you live in a state that has emmissions testing, NEVER, EVER, EVER reset your computer before going for an emmissions test. They are going to tell you to leave and come back in a week after you've driven the car around. Why? Because the OBD2 system will tell their emmissions computer right away that it was reset and has not had a chance to run through it's paces, therefore it can not verify that all emmissions systems are functioning properly. It might work for an OBD1 equipped car, but not an OBD2. No way, no chance, no how. Trust me, a close friend has every PA Emmissions certification and he's seen it happen a bunch of times. If the customer returns, they end up finding out that their OBD2 system had found a problem, but the customer thought he/she could get away with it by unhooking the battery to reset the OBD2 system.

I think the mechanic's OBD2 system scan can reset a blown sensor code without resetting the entire system, but I'm not sure on that. The codes still need to be cleared after you replace sensors, and the last time I had to replace a sensor on an OBD2 equipped car, I ended up pulling the fuse for the system to reset it fully. Check engine light never came back on, as I had corrected the problem (replaced a bad O2 sensor).
 
Land Rover are one of the WORST unreliable poorly designed cars around. I don't know of a single mechanic that doesn't hate those engines with a passion. Land Rover lost more dealerships to other manufactuers last year than any other car manufacturer. Dealers got plain annoyed at the sheer amount of angry return customers they were getting.
 
okay, after further investigation it seems like it only does this when water temp is still in the cold regiion, it does this for about 1-2 minutes till the engine heats up. The rpms can;t be incrased and the car basically can't go any faster and it makes this poppping sound everytime i put my foot on a perdal.
 
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